In one of mine, I showed how to make a good power supply yourself and complained about why good power supplies are rarely found on sale. I liked this power supply just from the picture, but since the picture can be deceiving, I decided to take a closer look and test it.
The review will include a description, photos, tests and analysis of a small design error.
Continue reading below the cut.
This is how things have changed. The voltage regulator has the ability to smooth out 3V ripple to less than 1 mV. At the same time, it is capable of delivering 1 amp. Five more power supplies with some helpful notes from Bill Bowden. Variable power supply from 7V to 24V with adjustable current from 50mA to 2amps using discrete components - ideal as a spare device. If you add two diodes, the voltage will drop to 0V.
However, this should be enough to cover the topic. This is the cheapest and easiest to use. Some are quite large and bulky and only allow one power point to be used when there is a dual power point. The latest version is a switch mode upgrade pack. The pack runs completely cool as it is more than 85% efficient. This is how the plugin package comes about. There is also a 5 amp version. This is superior to the hands down transformer.
My readers probably remember the review “12 Volt 5 Ampere power supply or how it could be done.” This power supply reminded me of the one I made at the end of the review :)
But tests and checks are of course good, but I’ll start, as always, with how it drove and how it arrived.
More than one power supply arrived, I’ll tell you about the second product another time, I think it will be no less interesting. I drove quickly and got there along the track in 8 days.
But there was a complaint about the packaging, but since not everyone likes packaging, I’ll hide a few photos under the spoiler.
The next step in power supply design is switching mode. As a general rule, it is always recommended to increase the power supply and not exceed 70% of the manufacturer's maximum power.
Package
The order arrived in a regular gray bag, wrapped in foam tape.
It was this packaging that I had complaints about. The packer simply folded my two bags, wrapped them with tape and taped them together, but the edges were left open.
As a result, the bags and the roll of tape traveled separately. It was very lucky that the trip was short and they were packed in separate bags, otherwise they could have broken through the packaging with their radiators and crawled out.
If you are not going to use ours, you cannot connect this resistor. The purpose of this resistance is to create a potential difference between its ends depending on the current supplied by the power source. It is absolutely necessary to fix the resistance body to the cooling fin, otherwise it will be destroyed by heat. The resistance value is 10 ohms and 30 watts of power, with a tolerance of 1%, pearl.
The board was packed in a familiar antistatic bag, with an equally familiar sticker.
Brief characteristics:
Input voltage 85-265 Volts
Output voltage - 12 Volts
Load current - 6 Amperes nominal, 8 Amps maximum.
Output power - 100 Watts (maximum)
We created a "preset" with 12 and 5 volts, which are the voltages we use the most. So when pressed once we have 12 volts, another ripple 5 volts, another ripple and we change the voltage using the potentiometer. We made a mass plan so that the largest possible portion of the copper is covered by the negative pole. In power supplies, this is convenient so as not to hum. Our textbook. There appear to be only two lines around the diagram, red on the "top" face and blue on the "bottom" face. When you click on the icon, a mass plane will be created on both sides. The power supply we have described is integrated and adapted for. This circuit allows us to monitor the temperature of the power supply and activate the fan when the probe exceeds the degrees we have programmed. To measure temperature we can place a probe either inside the box, measuring the ambient temperature or, better yet, in contact with the cooling fins. In addition, and the way we placed the straightener under the cooling fins, it will also ventilate it. And of course, moving air from inside to outside will also cool the remaining components.
The dimensions of the board are not very large, 107x57x30mm.
There is a drawing with more accurate dimensions, I think it will be useful.
The board itself looks very neat, completely matches the photo in the store, which pleasantly surprised me.
Most solar panels are designed to theoretically produce current with a nominal voltage of 12 volts. In fact, most of these panels can produce current that ranges between 16 volts and 36 volts. The problem is that the battery usually operates at a nominal voltage of 12 volts. More precisely between 10.5 V and 12.7 V depending on its state of charge. To fully charge the battery, charging requires 13.2 volts at 14.2 volts.
These values differ significantly from the nominal values produced by most photovoltaic solar panels. Example: Consider that we have a 120W panel. The panel produces 120W under a certain voltage and current. Why is 120 W not equal to 120 W?
The board has quite large heatsinks, and the board itself is made in an open design, i.e. It is intended for installation in some device and does not have its own housing.
I took it for a reason, but for business :) I have an idea to remake one of my devices, but since I was not sure of the quality of this power supply, I decided to order and try only that one first, so there will be a continuation. Well, at least I hope so.
Question: What happens if you connect this same 120W panel to your battery? Answer: You will not get 120 watts! Your panel provides an intensity of 7.1 amps. Your battery is charged at 12 volts. The missing 35 watts were not lost in nature. They simply weren't prepared by the panel. Indeed, the panel and battery were not smart enough to work together properly.
This is even worse with a low battery and therefore provides about 10.5 volts. You may then lose more than 35% of your expected power. A 120W panel is capable of producing 120W under very specific solar and temperature conditions. If the panel temperature is high, you won't have 17 volts. You will get less than 15 volts in hot areas. If you start with a panel containing less than 15 volts, you will have a problem because there is not enough voltage to charge the battery.
The board contains an input filter, an inrush current limiter and a screwless terminal block for the 220 Volt input.
The power transformer has a DC12V-8 sticker.
The output winding of the transformer is wound in 5 wires
The soldering is very neat, the leads are bitten off quite briefly, nothing sticks out, the flux is completely washed away. There are no missing components.
The board is two-layer with double-sided mounting.
But there is a small note: only one mounting pin is soldered on each of the radiators.
In my opinion this is not very good. What prevented us from soldering both is unclear.
Moreover, in the photo of the store everything is absolutely exactly the same.
I would like to note that the output voltage is measured at a point as close as possible to the output connector, which is a plus and affects the accuracy of holding the output voltage.
First of all, we must avoid confusion around the term “tracking” or “research.” The term "panel tracking" is used to describe mobile mechanical systems on which solar panels can be mounted. These mobile mounts are designed to "follow" the course of the sun to optimize the angle of the panel against the sun's rays throughout the day. These systems work on the same principle as sunflowers and can achieve energy efficiency improvements of about 15% in winter and up to 35% in summer.
Finding the maximum power point is done entirely electronically, without any device or mechanical system. It then calculates the maximum power level, which. The panel can deliver the battery, which the battery can accept. . From this power value, it determines the most suitable voltage to have the maximum amps in the battery.
A closer look at the main components of the board.
Installed PWM controller CR6842S, which is a complete analogue of the more famous controller
Almost all installed resistors are accurate, no worse than 1%, as indicated by the four-digit marking.
Power transistor 600 Volt 20 Ampere, 0.19 Ohm manufactured by Infineon.
Another minor note: the mounting screw was tightened too much and it pressed in the insulating sleeve. The transistor remained isolated from the radiator, and the radiator itself was isolated from other components, but the impression was somewhat spoiled.
The transistor is isolated from the radiator by a mica plate.
Keep in mind that battery boosters are the most important. Actual benefits may vary greatly depending on weather, temperature, battery charge status and other factors. Let's imagine that the battery level is low, say around 11.5 volts.
You now get 120 watts upon arrival. Ideally, to achieve 100 percent conversion efficiency, you would have 10 amps at 11.5 volts. But you must turn on the battery device with higher voltage to make the amplifier charge into the battery device.
Let me digress a little, in the photo you can see a small electrolytic capacitor, judging by the soldering it was either soldered in later or replaced, this did not affect the performance in any way (or almost in no way).
The fact is that if the load changes sharply from zero to 4 Amps or more, the power supply may turn off for 0.5 seconds. I would advise replacing this electrolyte with something like 47µFx50 V.
If such modes are not planned, then you can leave it as is.
Maximum power point chart. The green curve has a peak corresponding to the maximum power point. The red curve has a "classic" ridge. In very cold weather conditions, a 120W panel is capable of producing more than 130W because the lower the temperature, the higher the power output. On the other hand, in very hot temperature conditions, the higher the temperature, the lower the power generated by the panel.
In short, when can more power be restored. This unit takes the DC power in the solar cells, converts it into a high-frequency AC source, and converts it back to DC, the voltage and intensity of which is exactly matched by the battery.
Output diode assembly 100 Volt 2x20 Ampere manufactured by ST.
The radiator is actually smooth, that’s how it looks in the photo :)
You can also see a pair of output capacitors 1000 µF x 35 Volt, an output filter choke and an LED indicating the power supply is turned on.
Here the connector has already been installed with a regular screw connector.
Although, as for me, connectors are generally superfluous for an embedded board.
The advantage of high frequency circuits is that they can be designed with very efficient small sized transformers. These regulators improve the efficiency of the panels, but their effectiveness is highly variable. It happens that they lose their strength, which leads to very bad results. This can sometimes happen if a cloud passes over the solar panels. The linear circuit then looks for the next power point, settles on it, but cannot return to the previous point when the cloud disappears and the sun returns.
Fortunately, this doesn't happen too often. These systems don't really require any "intelligence" except for the conversion phase during output control. Intensity of solar radiation, external temperature - voltage of the battery device. They can interrupt power for a few microseconds to analyze the power device and battery device to make necessary adjustments.
The output capacitors are installed with a good voltage margin, which is very good.
Along the way, I checked the capacitance and ESR of these capacitors, and it turned out just as good.
The device showed the total capacitance and ESR, if recalculated for each separately, it will be approximately 1050 μF and 30 mOhm.
The capacitors are hardly branded, but the characteristics are quite normal, I was pleased with the operating voltage of 35 Volts. I usually use 25 Volt capacitors in my power supplies.
Well, “in order not to run twice,” I checked the input electrolyte.
It says 82uF 400 Volts 105 degrees.
Capacitance is almost normal, ESR is normal.
Capacitor manufacturer Taicon.
And of course I drew a diagram of this power supply. Most components are numbered according to the printed circuit board.
To test the power supply I prepared this bunch of different things :)
Nothing unusual:
Load resistors 3 pieces 10 Ohms and one set giving a total of 3 Ohms (5 pieces of 15 Ohms connected in parallel) + fan.
Multimeter
Non-contact thermometer
Oscilloscope
All kinds of connectors and wires.
Power supply testing
The testing process involved progressively increasing the load, and after each increase in load I waited about 15 minutes, then measured the temperature of the main components and moved on to the next step of increasing the load.
The oscilloscope divider was in the 1:1 position all this time.
1. Idle mode. Voltage 12.29 Volts.
2. One 10 Ohm resistor is connected. The voltage drops slightly to 12.28 Volts.
1. 2 10 Ohm resistors are connected, voltage 12.28 Volts.
2. 3 10 Ohm resistors are connected, voltage 12.27 Volts.
1. Connected to a 3 Ohm resistance set + fan, voltage 12.27 Volts
2. Set 3 Ohm + 10 Ohm resistor, voltage 12.27 Volts.
A small note: when connecting a load of more than 4 amperes, the power supply may turn off for 0.5 seconds and then turn on again. This only happens when moving from idle mode; even a small load removes this effect completely.
1. Set of 3 Ohms + 2 resistors 10 Ohms, voltage 12.27 Volts.
2. Maximum load mode, 3 Ohm + 3 10 Ohm resistors, voltage 12.27 Volts.
As I wrote above, during the testing process I measured the temperatures of various components.
Temperatures measured:
Power transistor
Transformer
Output diode
The first according to the output capacitor circuit.
For more accurate readings, the temperature of the transistor and diode assembly itself, and not their radiators, was measured.
With a load power of 80 Watts, I measured the temperature twice, the second measurement was after an additional 10 minute warm-up.
Summary:
pros
High quality build
Quite high quality components with a reserve.
Compliance with the stated parameters.
Excellent accuracy of output voltage stabilization
I don't see any need for improvement.
Low price.
Minuses
Note on packaging (minus the store)
One mounting contact on the radiator is not soldered.
My opinion.
To be honest, I already liked this power supply from the outside in the photo of the store, and I already had some confidence in what I would get in the end, but it’s one thing to see, and another thing to try.
The power supply left positive emotions and is perfect for being built into some kind of homemade device.
Of course, there are some downsides, but they are very small compared to the advantages.
The power supply for review was provided by banggood.
I hope that my review will be useful.
Of course, you can say that I am praising the product, but I can say that I have been working on power supplies for about 15 years, during this time I have collected more than 1000 units, how many I have repaired and remade, I have lost count. That’s why I can’t not praise a normal thing. I've seen better things, especially industrial power supplies, but the price tag is different.
You can also consider such a power supply, but with less power.
A small note to Chinese engineers
The power supply showed very good results, but there is a small caveat to the design, or rather to the printed circuit board.
The routing of some circuits is not done correctly, and if it were done correctly, the ripple level could be further reduced.
I'll show you with an example.
1. How it is done in the power supply, this section can be seen on the board, I simplified it a little for clarity.
2. How can this be done better without moving components on the board?
3. how to do it even better, but with moving components.
The fact is that in power circuits it is undesirable to have areas where current can flow in two directions, as this increases the level of interference.
The current must flow in only one direction.
In the original version, the capacitor charging current first flows along the same tracks, then the discharge current flows through them.
A 12 Volt power supply will allow you to power almost any household appliance, including even a laptop. Please note that the laptop input is supplied with voltage up to 19 Volts. But it will work great if powered from 12. However, the maximum current is 10 Amperes. Only consumption reaches this value very rarely, the average remains at the level of 2-4 Amperes. The only thing you should take into account is that when replacing a standard one with a homemade one, you will not be able to use the built-in battery. But still, a 12-volt power supply is ideal even for such a device.
The most important parameters of any power supply are the output voltage and current. Their values depend on one thing - the wire used in the secondary winding of the transformer. How to select it will be discussed below. For yourself, you must decide in advance for what purposes you plan to use the 12 Volt power supply. If you need to power low-power equipment - navigators, LEDs, etc., then an output of 2-3 Amps is quite sufficient. And then there will be a lot of this.
But if you plan to use it to carry out more serious actions - for example, charging a car, then you will need 6-8 Amperes at the output. The charging current must be ten times less than the battery capacity - this requirement must be taken into account. If there is a need to connect devices whose supply voltage differs significantly from 12 Volts, then it is wiser to set the adjustment.
The first element is a voltage converter. The transformer helps convert an alternating voltage of 220 Volts into the same amplitude, only with a much smaller value. At the very least you need a smaller value. For powerful power supplies, you can take a transformer like TS-270 as a basis. It has high power, there are even 4 windings that produce 6.3 Volts each. They were used to power incandescent radio tubes. Without much difficulty, you can make a 12 Volt 12 Ampere power supply out of it, which can even charge a car battery.
But if you are not completely satisfied with its windings, then you can remove all the secondary ones and leave only the network one. And wind the wire. The problem is how to calculate the required number of turns. To do this, you can use a simple calculation scheme - count how many turns the secondary winding contains, which produces 6.3 Volts. Now just divide 6.3 by the number of turns. And you will get the amount of voltage that can be removed from one turn of wire. All that remains is to calculate how many turns need to be wound in order to get 12.5-13 Volts at the output. It will be even better if the output voltage is 1-2 Volts higher than required.
What is a rectifier and what is it for? This is a semiconductor diode device that is a converter. With its help it turns into a permanent one. To analyze the operation of the rectifier stage, it is more clear to use an oscilloscope. If you see a sine wave in front of the diodes, then after them there will be an almost flat line. But small pieces of the sinusoid will still remain. Get rid of them later.
The choice of diodes should be taken with the utmost seriousness. If a 12-volt power supply is used as a battery charger, then you will need to use elements with a reverse current of up to 10 Amps. If you intend to supply power to low-current consumers, then a bridge assembly will be quite sufficient. This is where it's worth stopping. Preference should be given to a rectifier circuit assembled as a bridge - consisting of four diodes. If used on one semiconductor (half-wave circuit), then the efficiency of the power supply is almost halved.
Now that the output has a constant voltage, it is necessary that the 12 Volt power supply be slightly improved. For this purpose you need to use filters. To power household appliances, it is enough to use an LC circuit. It is worth talking about it in more detail. An inductance - a choke - is connected to the positive output of the rectifier stage. Current must pass through it; this is the first stage of filtration. Next comes the second - an electrolytic capacitor with a large capacity (several thousand microfarads).
After the choke, an electrolytic capacitor is connected to the positive. Its second pin is connected to the common wire (minus). The essence of the operation of an electrolytic capacitor is that it allows you to get rid of the entire alternating component of the current. Remember when there were small pieces of sine wave left at the output of the rectifier? This is exactly what you need to get rid of, otherwise the 12 Volt 12 Ampere power supply will interfere with the device connected to it. For example, a cassette player or radio will produce a strong hum.
To stabilize the output voltage, you can use just one semiconductor element. This can be either a zener diode with an operating voltage of 12 Volts, or more modern and advanced assemblies such as LM317, LM7812. The latter are designed to stabilize the voltage at 12 Volts. Consequently, even if the output of the rectifier stage is 15 Volts, after stabilization only 12 will remain. Everything else goes into heat. This means that it is extremely important to install a stabilizer on the radiator.
For greater versatility of the device, you should use a simple circuit that can be built in a few minutes. This can be achieved using the previously mentioned LM317 assembly. Only the difference from the switching scheme in stabilization mode will be small. 5 kOhm is connected to the break in the wire that goes to minus. A resistance of about 220 Ohms is connected between the output of the assembly and the variable resistor. And between the input and output of the stabilizer, protection against reverse voltage is a semiconductor diode. Thus, a 12 Volt power supply, assembled with your own hands, turns into a multifunctional device. Now all that remains is to assemble it and calibrate the scale. Or you can even install an electronic voltmeter at the output, which can be used to view the current voltage value.
From 0 to 12 volts and load current up to 1 ampere is shown in Figure 1.
An alternating voltage of 12 volts is rectified by the diode bridge VD1...VD4, smoothed by filter C1 C2, and supplied to a parametric stabilizer on the zener diode VD1. The 12 volt voltage generated by the zener diode is applied to resistor R2. From the motor of the variable resistor R2, the voltage is supplied to the analog switch VT1 VT2, connected according to the circuit of a composite transistor. The degree of opening of the key depends on the position of the variable resistor R2 slider, i.e. in the lower position of the regulator according to the diagram, the voltage at the base is zero and transistors VT1 VT2 are closed, no voltage is supplied to the load. In the upper position of the regulator R2 according to the diagram, the voltage at the base is maximum. The transistors are fully open, and the voltage from the rectifier is applied to the load, with the exception of the drop at the collector-emitter junction of transistor VT1.
The adjustable stabilizer circuit in Figure 1 contains a current circuit on transistor VT3. the current on resistor R4 will exceed the value of 1.2 amperes, due to the drop on it, transistor VT3 opens, thereby shunting resistor R2 with the collector-emitter transition, the voltage on R2 decreases, causing VT1 VT2 to close.
The current response threshold is selected by resistance R4, and with its resistance of 0.5 ohms it is approximately equal to 1.1...1.25 amperes.
By eliminating the current node in Figure 1 and replacing transistors VT1 VT2 with more powerful ones, you can build an adjustable stabilizer from 0 to 12 volts with a load current of up to 3 amperes. The diagram of such a stabilizer is shown in Figure 2.
A 12 volt voltage stabilizer is often used in a car's electrical circuit. The need to install it is explained by the fact that car power supplies (battery and generator) of various 12-volt electrical appliances produce direct current with a voltage of 12.5 to 14 V. Such large fluctuations can lead to damage and failure of sensitive and expensive LED tapes, fog lights, radios. Also, in addition to the electrical systems of cars, such devices are used in 12-volt power supplies that are capable of reducing and converting the alternating current of the household electrical network into a direct current more suitable for a number of devices.
When choosing a stabilizer, take into account the following characteristics:
Also, when choosing a stabilizer, it is necessary to take into account customer reviews, which can be found on specialized forums and websites.
Depending on the design and method of maintaining a 12-volt voltage, there are two types of stabilizers:
The most common and popular among car enthusiasts are linear devices, characterized by ease of self-assembly, reliability and durability. The pulse type is used much less frequently due to the high cost of parts and the difficulties of independent production and repair.
Linear stabilizer with transistor
Classic stabilizers are a large class of devices assembled based on semiconductor parts such as bipolar transistors and zener diodes. Among them, the main function of maintaining the voltage at 12 V is performed by zener diodes - a type of diodes connected in reverse polarity (the plus of the power supply is connected to the cathode of such a semiconductor device, and the minus to the anode), operating in breakdown mode. The essence of how these semiconductor parts work is as follows:
If the voltage supplied to the zener diode exceeds that stated as the maximum by the manufacturer, the device very quickly fails due to the effect of thermal runaway.
In order for any model of zener diode to serve as long as possible, it is recommended to specify, according to its specification, the voltage range and current strength in which it should be operated.
Depending on the connection, there are two versions of the classic stabilizer: linear - the adjusting elements are connected in series with the load; parallel – voltage stabilizing devices are located parallel to the powered devices.
The devices are assembled using small-sized microcircuits capable of operating at an input voltage of up to 26-30 V, delivering a constant 12-volt current of up to 1 Ampere. A special feature of these radio components is the presence of 3 legs - “input”, “output” and “adjustment”. The latter is used to connect an adjustment resistor, which is used to adjust the microcircuit and prevent it from overloading.
More convenient and reliable equalizers assembled on the basis of stabilizing microcircuits are gradually replacing analogues assembled on discrete elements.
Simple, but at the same time quite effective, reliable and durable stabilizing devices can be made independently, using simple zener diodes and special small microcircuits such as LM317, LD1084, L7812, KREN (KR142EN8B).
The assembly process of such a voltage-stabilizing device consists of the following steps:
The soldering process of such a stabilizer takes no more than 10 minutes and, taking into account the inexpensive microcircuit, does not require large investments. Using a similar device, LED lights and strips are powered.
The assembly of a device for stabilizing the voltage of an automobile on-board network using the LD1084 microcircuit is carried out as follows:
To smooth out the current ripple, another electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 10 μF is installed after the diode bridge.
12V stabilizer circuit for LEDs on L7812 board
A simple integrated equalizer using a Schottky diode and two capacitors is assembled as follows:
From such a simple device you can power powerful LED strips and a radio tape recorder.
Stabilizer on the KREN chip
The 12-volt voltage stabilizer circuit based on the bank board (KR142EN8B) includes the following components:
The design on the KREN board is the simplest and fastest to assemble. At the same time, its effectiveness and scope of application are the same as those of other homemade analogues.
At 1-2 amperes, but it is already problematic to obtain a higher current. Here we will describe a high-power power supply with a standard voltage of 13.8 (12) volts. The circuit is 10 amperes, but this value can be increased further. There is nothing special in the circuit of the proposed power supply, except that, as tests have shown, it is capable of delivering a current of up to 20 Amps for a short time or 10A continuously. To further increase power, use a larger transformer, diode bridge rectifier, higher capacitor capacity and number of transistors. For convenience, the power supply circuit is shown in several figures. The transistors do not have to be exactly the ones in the circuit. We used 2N3771 (50V, 20A, 200W) because there are many of them in stock.
LED lighting is increasingly being introduced into our lives. Capricious light bulbs fail and beauty immediately fades. And all because LEDs cannot work simply by being plugged into the mains. They must be connected through stabilizers (drivers). The latter prevent voltage drops, component failure, overheating, etc. This article and how to assemble a simple circuit with your own hands will be discussed.
In the on-board network of the car, the operating power is approximately 13 V, while most LEDs are suitable for 12 V. Therefore, they usually install a voltage stabilizer, the output of which is 12 V. Thus, normal conditions are provided for the operation of lighting equipment without emergency situations and premature failure.
At this stage, amateurs are faced with the problem of choice: many designs have been published, but not all work well. You need to choose one that is worthy of your favorite vehicle and, in addition:
If you have no desire to buy a ready-made device, then it’s worth learning how to make a simple stabilizer yourself. It is difficult to make a pulse stabilizer in a car with your own hands. That is why it is worth taking a closer look at the selection of amateur circuits and designs of linear voltage stabilizers. The simplest and most common version of a stabilizer consists of a ready-made microcircuit and a resistor (resistance).
The easiest way to make a current stabilizer for LEDs with your own hands is on a microcircuit. The assembly of parts (see figure below) is carried out on a perforated panel or a universal printed circuit board.
Scheme of a 5 ampere power supply with a voltage regulator from 1.5 to 12 V.
To assemble such a device yourself, you will need the following parts:
In this case, the LEDs (3 pcs.) are connected in series with a current-limiting resistor that equalizes the current. This set, in turn, is connected in parallel to the next similar set of LEDs.
The current stabilizer for LEDs can be assembled on the basis of a 3-pin DC voltage regulator (L7812 series). The mounted device is perfect for powering both LED strips and individual light bulbs in a car.
Required components to assemble such a circuit:
There can actually be many options.
The stabilizer body can be made from almost any material except wood. When using more than ten LEDs, it is recommended to attach an aluminum radiator to the stabilizer.
Maybe someone has tried it and will say that you can easily do without unnecessary troubles by directly connecting the LEDs. But in this case, the latter will be in unfavorable conditions most of the time, and therefore will not last long or will burn out altogether. But tuning expensive cars results in a fairly large sum.
As for the described schemes, their main advantage is simplicity. Manufacturing does not require any special skills or abilities. However, if the circuit is too complex, then assembling it with your own hands becomes unreasonable.
The ideal option for connecting LEDs is via. The device balances network fluctuations; with its use, current surges will no longer be a problem. In this case, it is necessary to comply with the power supply requirements. This will allow you to adjust your stabilizer to the network.
The device must provide maximum reliability, stability and stability, preferably for many years. The cost of the assembled devices depends on where all the necessary parts will be purchased.
In the video - for LEDs.
