The fan in the computer power supply is used to cool the system, preventing overheating of its elements and possible failure of the computer. Each part has its own resource, i.e. its service life, and over time, when you turn on the personal computer, you can hear only silence. This means that the fan has stopped spinning. This can happen for a number of reasons.
The main types of power supply failures include: contamination, foreign object, grease, mechanical failure, power wire.
The most common reason for a fan to stop is mechanical contamination. Air is constantly pumped into the system unit, and the dust contained in it settles on the fan elements over time.
The system unit includes all the main devices for receiving, transmitting, processing and storing information.
In the end, it becomes so much that it prevents the rotation of the blades. The easiest way to remove dust is to vacuum by placing the vacuum cleaner tube against the air inlet. However, this cleaning will help for a while. It is more correct to disassemble the computer and clean the blades and other elements of the fan, mechanically removing dirt.
Despite the obstructing filters, a small object can get into the air intake - a paper clip, parts of a broken handle, screws. The cause can be found out and eliminated only by disassembling the system unit. In addition to simply stopping the fan, a foreign object can cause it to break, which is the next reason for failure.
The fan, like any mechanism, needs lubrication. It needs to be updated over time. Without lubrication, bearings overheat and do not give sufficient rotational speed. Prevention is to apply lubricant to the fan mechanisms.
Synthetic engine oil is used as a lubricant for the fan sleeve bearings.
Mechanical failure may occur due to the ingress of a foreign object, or if the fan is of poor quality or old and has worn out its life. Any material has its own service life and under dynamic loads changes shape or breaks. Therefore, in any fan, a crack can form over time or the blades can bend. In this case, only a replacement will help.
Often, when moving the computer due to shaking or when disassembling the system unit on its own, the wire that feeds the fan can move away from the connector. As a result, it stops working due to lack of electricity. In this case, a visual check of the fan wires will help.
Each laptop user guesses that his device should in no case be a frying pan for frying eggs, in other words, the laptop should not overheat. In the standard configuration of a modern laptop, the role of the cooling system is played by an air cooler that cools the radiator that cools the central processor, and sometimes the entire motherboard.
If the cooler does not spin and the laptop does not overheat, then you should not worry too much: most likely, your gadget does not consider it necessary to run the cooler even at low speeds, because the temperature of the processor is within the acceptable limits of its thermal output to the device.
In any other case, it is imperative to fix the problem as soon as possible. Despite the fact that modern laptops have an emergency shutdown system (overheating fuse), nevertheless, you should beware that some internal part can fail. And this is not the main thing, because most often a laptop is used for work, which means that it can turn off at the most inopportune moment, because this is how the emergency shutdown system works.
Cooler diagnostics consists of 4 steps, the first two of which an experienced computer owner can solve on their own. Be sure to contact the service center for help so that a professional repairman for digital and mobile equipment performs a complete diagnosis.
In this case, there is a high probability that the cooler is heavily contaminated. In such cases, you need to disassemble the laptop, get the cooler, disassemble it and lubricate it well, and then put everything back together.
The cooler is often dirty, because a laptop can be used not only on a perfectly clean table, but also in warehouses, in dusty rooms, and even in work related to underground work. After cleaning and lubrication, the cooler should behave like new, this will be noticeable immediately after turning it on. The sound of a well-working cooler is quiet, slightly buzzing at full speed. In no case should it make third-party sounds: squeak, crack, rattle and other things.
Whether your cooler is dead is easy to check by opening the laptop and applying voltage to the fan with a third-party DC source. It is worth remembering that the red wire supplies 5 volts to the fan, and the white wire controls the speed (0 volts - does not spin, 3 volts - maximum rotation speed), black wire - ground. So, if the cooler does not start rotating after applying voltage to the white and red wires, then most likely the problem is that the servo drive is completely out of order and you need to replace either the electric motor or replace the entire cooler.
If, after applying voltage from an external source, the cooler starts to rotate and at the same time the contact on the motherboard responsible for supplying voltage to the cooler also outputs 5 volts, then the problem may be in the bios. To reflash the bios, you need to unsolder the ios element from the motherboard using a soldering iron / hair dryer combination and fill it with a new firmware for the bios controller through the programmer, which can be downloaded from the official website of the manufacturer. Remember to read and save the previous version of the dump to avoid trouble if the new firmware does not want to work. After the filling procedure, it is necessary to solder the bios chip and back.
If flashing bios did not help, then the problem is in the control voltage. It should be noted that of the 4 cooler pins, the fourth pin is responsible for the rotation input voltage, the third for the rotation speed control input voltage, the second for ground, and the first for the output voltage to the multicontroller, which allows you to read the cooler rotation speed, usually there are 3 pins on the cooler: the first one is not always read, by default the input control voltage is taken as the speed of the cooler.
Since the multicontroller controls the supply voltage, it means that it needs to be replaced (faulty). Very carefully, you should desolder it with a building hair dryer, with a temperature of about 400-450 degrees, then replace it with a similar one and solder it back. Be careful not to overheat the board and tracks. After successful soldering, you should definitely look at all the legs under a microscope, they must be firmly soldered to their tracks, since often after soldering a pair of legs can quietly move away or unsolder during heating of a working computer (with poor soldering).
After these 4 steps, the problem should be fixed, because otherwise it will be more profitable to purchase a new motherboard, since the upcoming repair will not be worth the investment and the time spent.
The cooling system is one of the most important, but at the same time vulnerable parts. It must work non-stop, maintaining the optimum temperature of all components. However, with prolonged use of the laptop, it may appear. The reason for this is elementary contamination or wear of the mechanism.
If the laptop fan just stopped working or works jerkily, then urgent repairs are required. Why the cooler on the laptop does not work and what to do, we will talk in this article.
There are two ways by which you can check if the fan is broken. The first - with the help, is intended for beginners who have no experience with special equipment. The second is technical, experience with the tester is required.
At first glance, it may seem that disassembling a laptop and extracting its components is a very complicated and time-consuming process. In fact, everything is extremely simple. Of course, there are exceptions for some models, but there is nothing to worry about in these situations. If necessary, you can find detailed instructions for your laptop model online.
Checking with a tester:
If there are no interruptions in the power supply, and the fan still does not turn on, then the problem is in it, and you can begin work on its “resuscitation”.
If the cooler does not start, the first thing to check is whether the rotor rotates under mechanical action. Gently push it with your finger or any tool.
Doesn't spin? It's safe to say that the cooler is dirty and you need to clean and oil it. How to do it, .
A common reason why a fan does not work is that the blade is skewed, as a result of which it begins to touch the top cover. This can be determined by the small scratches that remain after contact during operation.
Fixing this problem and repairing the cooler is quite simple. When installing the top cover, sink it into the fixing groove so that the blade does not touch the side walls during operation. Also, be sure to check the alignment by actively blowing air into the side hole. The blade should spin silently and unhindered.
If you did everything right, then after turning on the laptop, the extra noise will disappear and it will stop heating up, which will be especially noticeable in games.
If there are no problems with the power supply and rotation of the rotor, but the fan still does not spin, then the cause of its malfunction is most likely in the armature winding. Simply recommended.
The only problem that may arise is the difficulty in finding and acquiring a similar device, especially its dimensions. And do not buy an old part, because often it does not work well. Better consult with a specialist. Today you can easily find this component for laptops of any company (samsung, hp pavilion, asus, acer, lenovo or dns).
Each laptop is equipped with a cooling system, the main element of which is a cooler. And the more powerful the filling of the laptop, the more often the fan turns on. Please note that it does not constantly blow the insides, but periodically turns on, at the signal from the temperature sensor.It is controlled by a key transistor that supplies power to the cooler at about 2V. In many cases (especially if the laptop is powerful) there is no need to look for this transistor and re-solder it, risking damage to neighboring SMD parts and tracks.
Just disconnect the positive contact of the fan power connector - in the photo
And we apply the necessary voltage directly to it. Where to find these 2V inside the computer? The easiest way is to take it from the USB connector. But since there is 5V, you need to reduce them to 1.5-3. It is even recommended to set the voltage to the lower limit so that the constant operation of the fan does not create noise.
Do not be afraid of overheating of the laptop elements - any computer has a thermal protection that turns off the system when the temperature exceeds the set limit. If this happens, slightly increase the voltage on the cooling fan.
You can throw off extra volts in the simplest way - by soldering three diodes in series. The voltage drop will be 0.7V x 3 = 2.1V. It remains 2.9V.
16.06.2004, 03:29
People, help, who faced such a trouble:
Albatron KX 18D PRO motherboard (NVIDIA nForce2 Ultra400/MCP), Athlon XP 2500+ processor (Barton). Chip responsible for Winbond W 83627HF fans.
Suddenly the CPU cooler stopped. Thermal protection and computer worked. passed out. I reconnected the cooler to the CHASISFAN socket and so I'm still working.
My experience tells me that the transistor key, which controls the cooler speed, obviously flew. If so, where is it located and what transistors can it be replaced with?
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16.06.2004, 06:15
sasvlad
My experience tells me that the transistor switch, which controls the cooler speed, obviously flew
This key not only controls the speed, but primarily supplies power to the fan. And it is located most likely not far from the connector itself ... you need to look at the place.
16.06.2004, 16:40
AMDman
It's clear. Next to the connector are 3 capacitors, 1 diode, 2 transistors with planar leads and one microcircuit. The connector legs that supply power rang. In both directions they call briefly. To ring transistors, they must be soldered. Yes, I don’t know their pinout, not to mention the fact that it’s difficult to solder them (very small ones). And what to replace them with?
17.06.2004, 06:42
2 transistors with planar leads
Most likely one of them...
It is worth replacing with analogues (see the reference book).
If you don’t have enough experience yourself, then it’s better to bring it to the service, otherwise you can easily ruin it.
17.06.2004, 13:04
AMDman
Yes, I have experience...
But there is no kit. And there is no service here either, because. I bought my mother in Ukraine, and now I live in Germany. And here such repairs can cost more than the motherboard itself. :idonnow:
17.06.2004, 13:33
Yes, there is no difference between them, only in the BIOS they call names differently.
18.06.2004, 06:20
sasvlad
I've been thinking, maybe it's better not to touch it, but use the CHASISFUN connector?
18.06.2004, 13:01
It is possible and so, only some motherboards in this case may refuse to start ...
Mine works.
18.06.2004, 13:29
With a similar problem, we powered the cooler from a hard drive hose.
Already six months - the flight is normal!
18.06.2004, 13:51
2 sasvlad
If there is no other way out, then of course leave it! In general, for some time the cooler was connected to the molex connector. So everything worked fine.
18.06.2004, 15:35
I'll leave it like that for now. But just suddenly this one will fly? It would be better to fix it. And who knows what transistors are there, p-n-p or n-p-n? Maybe it would be possible to solder some thread KT315 or KT361?
06.08.2004, 23:31
So, my system worked in this form for less than two months. Today, the thermal protection of the processor worked. I open the case and see that the CPU cooler is standing again. I feed it from an external power supply - the fan works. So, I'm getting ready to power the cooler from Hard's power supply, as my colleague ivahaev advised. Just in case, I connect the cooler to the previously dead CPUFAN connector.
And, oh miracle! Now everything works there. Well, this begs the question: so this is not a physical defect of electronics damage, but some kind of software glitch? Then tell me who controls this Winbond W 83627HF chip? And where does the control program come from? From BIOS?
I once altered it to support high-capacity disks. Maybe the dog is buried here?
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