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At any stage of operation of the TV, a breakdown may occur. In this case, immediate repairs are necessary, which can be done on your own. We'll talk further about how to do this.

Measuring equipment and repair tools

To determine how to repair LCD TVs and other models, you first need to determine the cause of the breakdown. To do this you will need the following equipment:

  • tester or multimeter – to determine voltages at special (control) points, measure the values ​​of resistors and capacitors, test continuity of circuits and parts (coils, transformers, diodes, etc.);
  • amplifier – to determine the location of the sound signal loss;
  • oscilloscope – to compare signals at certain points with the TV circuit. It is used quite rarely at home, since not everyone knows how to work with it.

Regardless of the malfunction, you will need the following equipment to repair TVs:

  • screwdrivers of different sizes (straight, Phillips, rarely asterisks);
  • “hexagons” – quite rare, but necessary;
  • pliers, wire cutters, etc.;
  • soldering iron (25-60 watts) with rosin and tin;
  • hair dryer or soldering station - for modern models with a flat screen.
  • schematic diagram of the TV unit (can be found on the Internet). For example, the diagram of LCD devices looks like this:

Getting started - troubleshooting

A special troubleshooting technique has been developed for beginners, which will help them navigate when carrying out repairs. The table provides a description of the main faults and instructions in which unit the TV should be inspected and repaired.

Please note that if, during a visual inspection, you find darkening on the board, carbon deposits, swelling or rupture of parts, then you cannot immediately replace the damaged elements. A burnt component may be a sign of a short circuit, but the cause will be in a completely different direction.

Important! When inspecting, be sure to unplug the TV.

How to repair a TV if it won't turn on

Repairing a TV with a kinescope

As indicated in the table, the cause of the breakdown may be in the power supply, the power button and the cord. The wire and the button can be easily checked by the tester, and the serviceability of the button must be determined in the off and on state. The situation is more complicated with the power supply. If the inspection reveals damaged parts, it is not a fact that everything will work after replacing them. For example, capacitors can swell due to time, overvoltage, or a short circuit in a completely different circuit (secondary).

In any case, you need to call all the details of the power supply. We do it in the following sequence:

  1. If the “conder” is swollen, the posistor is cracked, or another obvious defect is visible, it is necessary to unsolder this element and clean the carbon deposits or electrolyte.
  2. We start checking with fuse 2 and posistor 3. Then we call the diode bridge, resistors, transistors and the microcircuit (if a high-voltage stabilizer is installed).
  3. If everything is in order, install new elements instead of old ones.

When replacing parts, especially transistors and microcircuits, be sure to install gaskets (mica or rubber) if they were installed under the housings of these elements. They serve to isolate components from the housing.

Remember! In case of any problems with the power supply, it is better to replace its main element (high-voltage transistor or stabilizer chip).

Repair of LCD/LCD TVs

There are two options for the location of the power supply in such devices:

  • Interior . It may be located in such a place that sometimes it is necessary to disassemble the entire television monitor. For example, many Chinese models do not have screws that secure the cover. To repair them, you need to pry off the plastic case with a flat tool (screwdriver) and remove the screen with the video driver, followed by the metal casing. By removing (unscrewing) it, you will get to the power supply.
  • External . More convenient for repairs, since you don’t have to “get into” the monitor itself.

All these power supplies are similar in operating principle to the power supply of a conventional CRT device, and the method for troubleshooting is the same. The only difference is in the element base and output voltages. Consequently, the repair of plasma TVs and LCD power supply devices is no different from the above.

The LCD/LCD or plasma screen does not light up – there is an image, but it’s barely noticeable

This indicates a problem in the backlight circuit. There are two reasons for this:

  1. Fixtures (lamps or LEDs) are damaged.
  2. There is no power supply to the backlight (backlight generator, transformer, transistors).

If the LCD has a lamp backlight, then the rest have LED backlight.

First option

LCD devices have from 1 to 10 lamps. Rarely do all the lamps burn out at once. In the first case, the lamp itself may be faulty. As a rule, TV sets with other technologies have LED strips installed. In many models they are located in series, and the combustion of one of the LEDs leads to the extinguishing of the entire screen.

Repair of LCD and other TVs is performed as follows:

Step 1 . Open the case.

Step 2 . Remove the driver and power supply boards (they can be located in a metal casing).

Step 3 . Disassemble the screen part. To do this, you need to remove one or two metal casings and (if any) the protective film.

Step 4 . Find backlights or LED strips.

Step 5 . Replace those that do not light up. It doesn’t hurt to check the contacts in the lamps or the diode strip for breaks first visually and with a tester.

Second option

If you have the second case, and all the lights do not light, most likely the problem is in the backlight power supply. LCD equipment uses a high-voltage converter made according to a transformer circuit. Faulty parts (microcircuit or transistors) in its trigger circuit are easily determined by the tester. To do this, measure the voltage on their legs, checking the diagram. If a discrepancy is found, the element is replaced.

But the transformer is difficult to check. Check all voltages (according to the diagram) on the elements of this converter. If everything is normal, the transformer is to blame.

It can be rewound, but this is a hassle, and the quality of such winding will again lead to failure. It’s better to buy a new one (get a working one from a TV workshop) and install it.

In the LED backlight transformer, the potential difference is only 50-100 V. If it is not on the connector, you need to check how many volts are supplied to the transformer. To do this, it is better to remove it. If everything is normal, change the transformer; if not, use a tester to check the remaining elements of the converter.

No sound or wheezing

In this case, there is a breakdown in the sound path. Check the supply and output voltages on the legs of the audio amplifier microcircuit (with a tester according to the diagram). If they are normal, the piping and input capacitors are to blame.

If nutrition is low or absent, there are two reasons:

  1. It doesn't come with the PSU. . In this case, all elements going from the power supply to the charger are called and the ones that are faulty are replaced.
  2. The chip is unusable . This can be easily checked by unsoldering the microcircuit. If after this the voltage appears and is normal, it needs to be changed.

The screen lights up, but there is no image

This happens for many reasons. Here are some of them:

The video amplifier input does not receive a signal from the receiving unit (tuner and its circuits). To check, you need to connect some video signal source (computer, VCR, set-top box) to the “Video” sockets on the TV body. For example, HDMI, VGA, tulips (yellow) and others.

If the image appears, the tuner, microcontroller and their circuits are to blame. The microcontroller can be checked quickly. It is responsible for the operation of buttons, input, sound and video signals. If when you press the buttons you can enter the menu and it is displayed on the screen, then the microcontroller is not at fault. Check the potentials on its legs with a tester. If they all match the diagram, change the tuner.

The video processor is to blame. If nothing happens after connecting to the tuners, then check the microcircuit (video processor). Check all supply and output circuits for compliance with the required potentials. If there is a discrepancy, the processor is 70% faulty.

  • When checking the power supply, turn off the secondary circuits, and instead turn on ordinary light bulbs at the appropriate voltage.
  • If you suspect that the “electrolyte” has lost capacity, warm it up with a soldering iron. The electrolyte inside will boil and the capacity will be restored for a short time. The method helps with frame scanning malfunctions, when you can visually see how the screen opens as a result of heating.
  • If the high-voltage part is faulty, a slight hissing and crackling noise can be heard. Turn off the lights. In the dark you can tell where the sparks are coming from.

Video tutorials on troubleshooting

The video explains in detail how to replace LEDs on an LED matrix:

And about how to completely replace the matrix on a TV.

Sometimes there are atypical malfunctions due to which the backlight may not start. You will learn how to eliminate one of them in this video:

You can learn more about the combustion of transistors and microcircuits in the following lesson:

The video will tell you how to find and replace swollen capacitors in a power supply:

As you can see, not all TV malfunctions can be repaired at home. We told you how to find typical breakdowns, what equipment to use when searching for them, and how to repair some problems with your video equipment. To fix more serious damage, you will have to contact a teleworkshop.

In contact with

We have systematized the most common malfunctions of modern Philips TVs, collected by employees of various service centers

Modern televisions from the Dutch brand Philips, which are now produced by the largest Chinese manufacturer TPV Technology, have always been distinguished by high quality and functionality. However, any, even the most reliable product is not immune to problems associated with industrial defects, violation of operating rules, natural disasters, or natural wear and tear of internal units and components.

We present to you a list of the most common malfunctions of Philips TVs and their external manifestations. After assessing them, you can decide whether to contact them or whether you can handle it yourself.

Typical malfunctions of modern Philips TVs

  1. There is an image on the screen, but no sound from TV programs. The cause of the problems should be found in the audio path of the TV, a failed low-frequency amplifier, or an audio signal processor.
  2. There is no image on the screen, but there is sound. In this case, most likely, some element of the TCON board or the matrix itself is faulty.
  3. There is no picture, no sound. Most likely, the problems arose due to the fault of the TV's power supply or its main SSB board. Service workers claim that the Philips 42PFL9603 TV model most often suffers from this type of malfunction.
  4. A vertical stripe has formed on the plasma TV screen. At the same time, the image itself is somewhat compressed vertically. With a high degree of probability we can say that the Y-MAIN PDP panel board has failed.
  5. The image is transmitted, but with significant noise. You should check the serviceability of the TV antenna jack, cable, and built-in or external tuner.

If your TV is no longer under warranty, then by removing its back cover, you can find additional external signs of malfunctions that will allow you to make the right decision about the future fate of the device.

External signs of simple malfunctions of Philips TVs that can be fixed independently:

  • Traces of exposure to high temperatures on the printed circuit board of the TV, which did not lead to its charring;
  • Circular cracks at soldering points, inaccurate soldering of circuit elements. In this case, the contact tracks of the printed circuit board did not peel off;
  • Minor damage to circuit elements caused by voltage surges that are not accompanied by obvious external manifestations.

External signs of damage that require serious intervention from specialists from the service center:

  • Traces of melting and charring of printed conductors and circuit elements;
  • Mechanical damage to the printed circuit board, the TV body and its screen matrix.

Modern people can no longer imagine their life without video and audio technology. As a result of regular and intensive use of equipment, it is subject to various breakdowns. Imported and domestic TVs often have poor potential. A posistor is responsible for this function. Another plasma malfunction can be a change in color, interference, or the appearance of light or dark stripes during operation. But sometimes the problem may be with the outlet or power cord. This is only the most minimal description of the malfunctions, as there may be many more problems associated with the TV. Screen faults are the most difficult to fix. If dark or light spots appear on the monitor after a shock or water contact, it is better to immediately take it to a service center, since only a specialist can repair the device.

Before starting repair work, it is imperative to determine what exactly is broken and for this purpose the device is diagnosed. If the TV does not turn on, the problem may be due to a blown fuse. This applies to LCD and CRT TVs. At the same time, as practice shows, the problem may be a malfunction of the diode bridge.

TV repair possible:

  • Have it done at a service center;
  • Call a specialist to your home;
  • Carry out all repair work yourself.

Plasma TVs, unlike tube TVs, have many advantages, as they: have a more saturated image, have a thin body, are characterized by high contrast and wide viewing angles. However, despite all the advantages, like models with a kinescope, they are subject to a wide variety of breakdowns.

All types of faults that arise can be divided into several categories, namely:

  • Plasma panel malfunction;
  • Failure of the electrical circuit, receiver;
  • Problems with sockets, connectors, wires;
  • Dust accumulation inside the device.

If the screen is broken, the image may be partially or completely missing. In this case, the plasma panel will need to be replaced at a specialized service center, and you will not be able to repair the TV yourself. If the TV panel is broken, you also need to replace it. If the problem is in the electronics, the image may become distorted and disappear completely. You can repair electronics yourself by resoldering faulty parts or replacing them with new ones.

However, you must have certain knowledge and skills in working with electronics.

If you handle wires, cables or connectors carelessly, certain problems may arise. Faulty parts of an LED TV can be repaired, and in case of serious damage, replaced with new ones. The accumulation of dust inside the case can cause various malfunctions, which is why it is better to clean the device in a timely manner than to repair the TV for a long time.

Features of DIY LCD TV repair

Repairing LED TVs at home can be quite a complex and time-consuming task, which is why you need to pay enough attention to prevention, as this will help reduce the risk of breakdowns.

Preventive measures include:

  • The device must be located in a ventilated area;
  • Periodically you need to clean the dust;
  • You cannot leave static images for more than 20 minutes.

Learning how to repair a TV yourself is quite simple; the most important thing is to take into account the advice of professional technicians. You can learn all the secrets of repairing LCD TVs by watching video lessons for beginners, where everything is described in detail for each brand of device.

Important! Before you start repairing the TV yourself, it is advisable to consult with a specialist, since the cause of the breakdown can be very serious and can only cause even more harm to the equipment .

DIY LG TV breakdowns and repairs

LG is considered one of the most popular manufacturers of household appliances. The manufacturer is constantly improving the production of household appliances, introducing the latest technologies, which allows them to achieve exceptional quality of devices.

Basically, the following factors lead to breakdowns of LGI TVs::

  • Getting foreign objects inside the equipment;
  • Clogging;
  • Poor quality maintenance and improper operation.

Before you start repairing an LSD TV, you need to prepare the appropriate tools and check the device for faults. Then you need to remove the back cover of the device and find the instructions, which will be written in Russian so that you can study the configuration. Initially, the television receiver is inspected, and the reliability of all cable connections is checked. After checking the connections, you need to carefully inspect the cable equipment, because it may be the main cause of the breakdown.

If the cause of the malfunction is the power cord, then you must initially replace it and only then proceed to further diagnostics of the device.

Often LSIDI TVs do not work due to a broken power supply. For the same reason, a computer can often fail. Failure mainly occurs as a result of excessive accumulation of dust inside the device. When repairing an old CRT TV, you need to inspect the base element of the kinescope. All threads must glow. If you have to repair electronic devices for the first time, then initially a circuit design is drawn up.

LED TV models and repairs

Repairing a TV with your own hands is a completely doable task; the most important thing is to first familiarize yourself with the features of the internal structure of the equipment.

The simplest TV models are considered to be::

  • Rolsen;
  • Samsung;
  • Supra;

In addition, among modern TVs, the brands Sony, Panasonic, Elenberg, and Mystery are quite simple in design. Standard faults are the absence of backlight or periodic loss of sound. In this case, it is important to determine the performance of each individual element. In TVs Supra, Samsung, VVK and others, the LEDs located on the strip often burn out. The problem is resolved by replacing them. The cause of LED burnout is mainly the constant overheating of the device and its operation at critical temperature conditions. In addition to replacing the LED, aligning the heat sink is also important, as this allows for better transfer of excess heat.

What to do if your Philips TV doesn’t turn on: DIY repairs

The high reliability of a Philips TV guarantees its long service life, however, in some cases various types of breakdowns may occur. Philips brand equipment is distinguished by its high quality and the difficulty of troubleshooting, since the device is characterized by the peculiarity of its parts, in particular, such as the transformer.

The most common types of malfunctions are::

  • No sound;
  • Blinking, periodic disappearance or complete absence of the picture;
  • Image distortion;
  • Lack of response to commands.

In the case of a broken matrix, it is best to purchase another TV, since replacing it will be very expensive. If you do not have sufficient experience in carrying out repair work, you can watch video tutorials or entrust troubleshooting to specialists.

DIY TV repair (video)

LCD TVs are a very reliable and functional device, however, if used incorrectly, if dust and foreign objects get in, as well as if there are defects and many other problems, various types of breakdowns can occur. You can eliminate many types of plasma malfunctions quite simply on your own; the most important thing is to first study the design of this type of equipment.

Finding a defect is much more difficult than eliminating it, especially for a novice master. The universal method proposed by the author of the article will allow you to quickly and effectively diagnose a modern TV.

WHERE TO START

When repairing television receivers, there are situations when the TV does not turn on and does not show any signs of life. This makes it much more difficult to localize the defect, especially considering that imported equipment often has to be repaired without schematic diagrams. The technician is faced with the task of identifying the malfunction and eliminating it with the least amount of time and effort. To do this, you need to follow a certain troubleshooting technique.

If a workshop or private master values ​​​​its reputation, it is necessary to start with cleaning the device. Armed with a soft brush and a vacuum cleaner, you should clean the inner surface of the case, the surface of the kinescope and the board of the television receiver. After thorough cleaning, an external inspection of the board and elements on it is carried out. Sometimes you can immediately determine the location of the malfunction by swollen or ruptured capacitors, by burnt resistors, or by transistors and microcircuits that have burned through. It happens that after cleaning the kinescope from dust, instead of a transparent bulb, we see a milky white inner surface (loss of vacuum).

Much more often, a visual inspection does not reveal external signs of faulty parts. And here the question arises - where to start?

POWER UNIT

It is most advisable to start repairs by checking the functionality of the power supply. To do this, turn off the load (horizon output stage) and connect a 220 V, 60...100 W incandescent lamp instead.

Typically, the horizontal scan supply voltage is 110...150 V, depending on the size of the kinescope. Having looked at the secondary circuits, on the board next to the pulse transformer of the power supply we find a filter capacitor, which most often has a capacity of 47...100 µF and an operating voltage of about 160 V. Next to the filter there is a horizontal scan supply voltage rectifier. After the filter, the voltage is supplied to the output stage through a choke, a limiting resistor or a fuse, and sometimes there is simply a jumper on the board. Having unsoldered this element, we will disconnect the output stage of the power supply from the horizontal scanning stage. We connect an incandescent lamp in parallel to the capacitor - a load simulator.

When turned on for the first time, the key transistor of the power supply may fail due to a malfunction of the wiring elements. To prevent this from happening, it is better to turn on the power supply through another 100...150 W incandescent lamp, used as a fuse and switched on instead of the soldered component. If there are faulty elements in the circuit and the current consumption is large, the lamp will light up and all the voltage across it will drop. In such a situation, it is necessary, first of all, to check the input circuits, the mains rectifier, the filter capacitor and the powerful transistor of the power supply. If, when turned on, the lamp lights up and immediately goes out or begins to glow faintly, then we can assume that the power supply is working, and it is better to make further adjustments without the lamp.

Turn on the power supply and measure the voltage across the load. Look carefully on the board to see if there is a resistor for adjusting the output voltage near the power supply. Usually next to it there is an inscription indicating the voltage value (110...150 V).

If there are no such elements on the board, pay attention to the presence of control points. Sometimes the supply voltage is indicated next to the terminal of the primary winding of the line transformer. If the diagonal of the kinescope is 20…21″, the voltage should be in the range of 110…130 V, and if the kinescope size is 25…29″, the supply voltage range is usually 130…150V.

If the supply voltage is higher than the specified values, it is necessary to check the integrity of the elements of the primary circuit of the power supply and the feedback circuit, which serves to set and stabilize the output voltage. Electrolytic capacitors should also be checked. When dry, their capacity decreases significantly, which leads to incorrect operation of the circuit and an increase in secondary voltages.

For example, in an Akai CT2107D TV, when the electrolytic capacitor C911 (47 µF, 50 V) dries out, the voltage in the secondary circuit can increase to 210 V instead of 115 V.

If the voltages are underestimated, it is necessary to check the secondary circuits for short circuits or large leaks, the integrity of the protective diodes R2K, R2M in the horizontal scan power circuit and the 33 V protective diodes in the vertical scan power circuit.

For example, in the Gold Star CKT 2190 TV, with a faulty horizontal power filter capacitor of 33 μF, 160 V, which has a large leakage current, the output voltage instead of 115 V was about 30 V.

In the Funai TV-2000A MK7 TV, the protective diode R2M was broken, which led to the protection being activated, and the TV did not turn on; in the Funai TV-1400 MK10, a breakdown of the 33 V protective diode in the vertical scan power circuit also led to the protection being triggered.

LINE SCAN

Having dealt with the power supply and making sure that it is working, we restore the connection in the horizontal scan power circuit, having first removed the lamp that was used instead of the load.

To turn on the TV for the first time, it is advisable to install an incandescent lamp used instead of a fuse.

If the horizontal scanning output stage is working properly, the lamp will light up for a few seconds when turned on and go out or glow dimly.

If the lamp flashes when turned on and continues to burn, you need to make sure that the horizontal output transistor is working properly. If the transistor is working and there is no high voltage, make sure there are control pulses at the base of the horizontal output transistor. If there are pulses and all voltages are normal, we can assume that the line transformer is faulty.

Sometimes this is immediately clear from the strong heating of the latter, but it is very difficult to reliably say whether the TDKS is working based on external signs. In order to determine this accurately, you can use the following method. We apply rectangular pulses with a frequency of 1...10 kHz of small amplitude to the collector winding of the transformer (you can use the output of the oscilloscope calibration signal]. We also connect the oscilloscope input there.

With a working transformer, the maximum amplitude of the resulting differentiated pulses should be no less than the amplitude of the original rectangular pulses.

If the TDKS has short-circuited turns, we will see short differentiated pulses with an amplitude two or more times smaller than the original rectangular ones. This method can also determine the malfunction of transformers of network switching power supplies.

The method works without soldering the transformer (naturally, you need to make sure there is no short circuit in the secondary circuits).

Another malfunction of the horizontal scan, in which the power supply does not turn on and the lamp, turned on instead of the fuse, glows brightly - a breakdown of the horizontal deflection coils. This malfunction can be determined by disconnecting the coils. If after this the TV turns on normally, then the deflection system [OS] is probably faulty. To verify this, replace the deflection system with a known good one. In this case, the TV must be turned on for a very short time to avoid burning through the kinescope. Replacing the deflection system is not difficult. It is better to use the OS from a similar kinescope with a diagonal of the same size.

The author had to install a deflection system from a Philips TV with a diagonal of 21″ in the Funai 2000 MKZ TV. After installing the new OS on the TV, it is necessary to adjust the beam convergence using a television signal generator.

FRAME SCAN

If the horizontal scan is working properly, then at least a horizontal stripe should be lit on the screen, and if the vertical scanning is working properly, the full raster should be lit. If there is no raster and a bright horizontal stripe is visible on the screen, you should reduce the brightness of the screen by adjusting the accelerating voltage on the TDKS. This is necessary in order not to burn through the phosphor of the kinescope, and only after this should you look for a fault in the frame scan.

Diagnostics in the vertical scanning unit should begin by checking the power supply of the master oscillator and output stage. Most often, power is taken from the winding of a line transformer. The supply voltage for these stages is 24…28 V. The voltage is supplied through a limiting resistor, which must be checked first. Frequent faults in vertical scanning are breakdown or breakage of the rectifier diode and failure of the vertical scanning chip. Rarely, but still, an interturn short circuit occurs in frame deflection coils.

If you suspect a deflection system, it is better to check it by temporarily connecting a known-good coil. Monitoring should be done with an oscilloscope, observing pulses directly on the frame coils.

CINESCOPE POWER CIRCUIT

It happens that the power supply and scanner are working properly, but the TV screen does not light up. In this case, you need to check the filament voltage, and if it is present, the integrity of the kinescope filament.

In the author’s practice, there were two cases when the filament winding of a line transformer was broken (Sony and Waltham TVs). Don't rush to change the line transformer. To begin with, it should be carefully unsoldered, cleaned of dust and carefully inspected the terminals of the filament winding.
Sometimes the break is located near the terminal under a layer of epoxy resin. Using a hot soldering iron, carefully remove part of the resin and, if a break is found, remove it, after which it is advisable to fill the repair area with epoxy resin.

If the break cannot be found, you can wind the incandescent winding on the core of the same transformer. The number of turns is selected experimentally (usually 3...5 turns, MGTF wire 0.14]. The ends of the winding can be secured with glue or mastic.

RADIO CHANNEL, COLOR BLOCK, VIDEO AMPLIFIER

If the scan is normal, the screen lights up, but there is no image, you can determine the faulty unit by the following signs.

If there is no sound and image, the fault must be looked for in the radio channel (tuner and video processor).

If there is sound and no image, the fault should be looked for in the video amplifier or color block.

If there is an image and no sound, the video processor or low-frequency amplifier is most likely faulty.

After checking the supply voltage of the radio channel, you need to submit video and audio signals through the low-frequency input (you can use a TV signal generator or a regular VCR).

If there is no image or sound, you should use an oscilloscope to trace the passage of the signal from the source from which the signal was supplied to the cathodes of the kinescope or, if the audio channel is faulty, to the speakers and, if necessary, replace the faulty element.

If, after applying a signal to the low-frequency input, image and sound appear, then the fault should be sought in the previous stages.

When checking the video processor, you need to apply an IF signal to the FSS input from the generator or from the tuner output of another TV.

If the image and sound do not appear, use an oscilloscope to check the signal path and, if necessary, change the video processor (when replacing a microcircuit, it is better to immediately solder the socket).

If there is image and sound, then the fault should be looked for in the tuner or in its harness. First of all, you need to check whether the tuner is receiving power.

Check the serviceability of the key transistors through which voltage is supplied to the tuner when switching bands. Monitor whether the base of these transistors receives a signal from the control processor, check the value and range of changes in the setting voltage, which should vary within 0...31 V.

When diagnosing tuner malfunctions, you need to send a signal from the antenna to the mixer, bypassing the RF amplifier stages. To do this, it is convenient to use a probe, which can be made from a disposable syringe with a removed piston. An antenna socket should be installed at the top of the syringe and the central contact should be connected to the needle through a 470 pF capacitor. We bring out the ground using a regular wire; For convenience, it is better to solder an alligator clip to the ground wire. We connect the probe to the antenna plug and supply the signal to the tuner stages.

Using such a probe, it was possible to determine a malfunction in the tuner of the Grundig T55-640 OIRT TV. The first UHF stage in this device was faulty. The problem was resolved by applying the signal through a 10 pF capacitor directly from the antenna jack, bypassing the first transistor, to the next tuner stage. The image quality and sensitivity of the TV after this modification remained quite high and did not even affect the operation of teletext.

CONTROL BLOCK

Particular attention should be paid to diagnosing the TV control unit.

When repairing it, it is advisable to use the diagram or reference data for the control processor. If you cannot find such data, you can try to download it from the website of the manufacturer of these components via the Internet (http://www.bgs.nu/sdw/shtml).

A malfunction in the unit may manifest itself as follows: the TV does not turn on, the TV does not respond to signals from the remote control or control buttons on the front panel, there is no adjustment of volume, brightness, contrast, saturation and other parameters, there is no adjustment to television programs, settings are not saved in memory , no indication of control parameters.

If the TV does not turn on, first of all we check the presence of power to the processor and the operation of the clock generator. Then you need to determine whether the signal from the control processor is sent to the switching circuit. To do this, you need to find out the principle of turning on the TV.

The TV can be turned on using a control signal that triggers the power supply, or by unblocking the passage of horizontal trigger pulses from the master oscillator to the horizontal scan unit.

It should be noted that on the control processor the signal to turn on is designated either Power or Stand-by. If a signal is received from the processor, then the fault should be looked for in the switching circuit, and if there is no signal, you will have to change the processor.

If the TV turns on but does not respond to signals from the remote control, you need to first check the remote control itself. You can check it on another TV of the same model.

To test remote controls, you can make a simple device consisting of a photodiode connected to the CP-50 connector. The device is connected to an oscilloscope, the sensitivity of the oscilloscope is set within 2...5 mV. The remote control should be pointed at the LED from a distance of 1...5 cm. On the oscilloscope screen, if the remote control is working, bursts of pulses will be visible. If there are no pulses, we diagnose the remote control.

We check sequentially the power supply, the condition of the contact tracks and the condition of the contact pads on the control buttons, the presence of pulses at the output of the remote control microcircuit, the serviceability of the transistor or transistors and the serviceability of the emitting LEDs.

Often, after the remote control is dropped, the quartz resonator breaks down. If necessary, we replace the faulty element or restore the contact pads and the coating of the buttons (this can be done by applying graphite, for example with a soft pencil, or by gluing a metallized film to the buttons).

If the remote control is working properly, you need to trace the passage of the signal from the photodetector to the processor. If the signal reaches the processor, but nothing changes at its output, we can assume that the processor is faulty.

If the TV is not controlled from the buttons on the front panel, you must first check the serviceability of the buttons themselves, and then monitor the presence of polling pulses and their supply to the control bus.

If the TV is turned on from the remote control and pulses are sent to the control bus, but the operational adjustments do not work, you need to find out which pin the microprocessor uses to control this or that adjustment (volume, brightness, contrast, saturation). Next, check the adjustment data paths, right down to the actuators.

The microprocessor produces control signals with a linearly varying duty cycle, and when arriving at the actuators, these signals are converted into a linearly varying voltage.

If a signal arrives at the actuator, but the device does not respond to this signal, then this device must be repaired, and if there is no control signal, the control processor must be replaced.

If there is no tuning to television programs, first check the subband selection node. Typically, through buffers implemented on transistors, voltage is supplied from the processor to the tuner pins (0 or 12 V). Most often it is these transistors that fail. But it happens that there are no subband switching signals from the processor. In this case, you need to change the processor.

Next, we check the tuning voltage generation unit. The supply voltage usually comes from the secondary rectifier from the line transformer and is 100...130 V. From this voltage, 30...31 V is formed using a stabilizer.

The microprocessor controls a switch that generates a setting voltage of 0...31 V using a signal with a linearly varying duty cycle, which, after filters, is converted into a linearly varying voltage.

Most often, the 30...33 V stabilizer fails. If the TV does not save settings in memory, it is necessary to check the data exchange between the control processor and the memory chip via the CS, CLK, D1, DO buses for any setting. If there is an exchange, but the parameter values ​​are not stored in memory, replace the memory chip.

If the TV does not have an indication of control parameters, it is necessary in the indication mode to check the presence of packets of video pulses of service information on the control processor along the R, G, B circuits and the brightness signal, as well as the passage of these signals through the buffers to the video amplifiers.

In this article we touched on a small part of the faults that occur in television receivers. But in any case, the method of finding them will help you correctly identify and eliminate the malfunction and will reduce the time spent on repairs.

Few people can imagine a full-fledged home without video and audio equipment, and it is precisely because of regular and intensive use that this type of equipment is most often subject to breakdowns. TV repairs can be done at home by calling a professional, or you can do all the work yourself.

Diagnostics

Before starting repair work, you should determine what exactly is broken in the TV. In any case, this will greatly facilitate both the independent repair process and explaining the essence of the problem to the TV technician.

Photo – Samsung design

Main types of faults:


Of all the listed troubles, screen breakdowns are the most difficult to fix. For example, if light reflections appear on the monitor after an impact or water got on the matrix, it is better to immediately take the device to a service center, where it can be repaired under warranty.


Photo - details

LCD and LED repair

But most repairs can be easily done by yourself. Let's consider in order how to carry out urgent repairs of home LCD and LED TVs Thomson (Thomson), Sharp (Sharp), Samsung, Panasonic (Panasonic) and other models:


In addition, a certain area of ​​the backlight may burn out.

In different models of television equipment, lamp replacement is done in different ways. For example, on many Daewoo, Akai and Hitachi TVs, in order to dismantle a burnt out lamp, you will need to remove the matrix from the panel and reinstall the element on it. At the same time, for some Rolsen and Funai it will be possible to change a burning light bulb or diode without dismantling it. Depending on the design, you will need to bend (unsolder) the contacts, remove the gasket and carefully remove the burnt element from the housing. A completely similar lamp, both in parameters and in size, is installed in its place.


Photo – LCD monitor device

Many Chinese models of television equipment - CTV, VAO, BBK - when disassembling you can see light stripes on the matrix. They indicate a breakdown of this particular element. Due to some external factors, the part stopped working and oxidized. In this case, you need to select an element that is identical in terms of performance and install it in place of the faulty one.

Unlike old stationary CRT or portable models, plasma and ED options are very rarely repairable if the screen breaks. This is a very labor-intensive process, so not even all professional workshops undertake such work. In most cases, if the monitor is cracked, it will be cheaper and easier to buy a new TV than to repair the old one.

Video: PHILIPS TV repair

CRT repair

Despite the total use of plasma, many owners still have more outdated CRT TVs (for example, from Vityaz, Elt, Rubin, Horizon, JVC). Step-by-step instructions on how to carry out repair work on electron beam models.

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