The voltage of the home electrical network is often low, never reaching the normal 220 V. In such a situation, the refrigerator does not start well, the lighting is weak, and the water in the electric kettle does not boil for a long time. The power of an outdated voltage stabilizer, designed to power a black-and-white (tube) TV, is usually insufficient for all other household appliances, and the network voltage often drops below what is permissible for such a stabilizer.
There is a known simple way to increase the voltage in the network using a transformer with a power significantly less than the load power. The primary winding of the transformer is connected directly to the network, and the load is connected in series with the secondary (step-down) winding of the transformer. With appropriate phasing, the voltage on the load will be equal to the sum of the network voltage and that removed from the transformer.
Mains voltage stabilizer circuit operating on this principle is shown in Fig. 1. When the field-effect transistor VT2 connected to the diagonal of the diode bridge VD2 is closed, winding I (primary) of transformer T1 is disconnected from the network. The load voltage is almost equal to the mains voltage minus a small voltage drop on winding II (secondary) of transformer T1. If you open the field-effect transistor, the power circuit of the primary winding of the transformer will be closed, and the sum of the voltage of its secondary winding and the mains voltage will be applied to the load.
Rice. 1 Voltage stabilizer circuit
The load voltage, reduced by transformer T2 and rectified by the diode bridge VD1, is supplied to the base of transistor VT1. The trimmer resistor R1 must be set to a position in which transistor VT1 is open and VT2 is closed if the load voltage is greater than the rated voltage (220 V). When the voltage is less than the rated one, transistor VT1 will be closed and VT2 will be open. Negative I feedback organized in this way maintains the load voltage approximately equal to the rated voltage
The voltage rectified by the VD1 bridge is also used to power the collector circuit of the transistor VT1 (via the integrated stabilizer DA1). Circuit C5R6 suppresses unwanted surges in the drain-source voltage of transistor VT2. Capacitor C1 reduces interference entering the network during operation of the stabilizer. Resistors R3 and R5 are selected to achieve the best and most stable voltage stabilization. Switch SA1 turns the stabilizer on and off along with the load. By closing switch SA2, the automation is turned off, which maintains the voltage across the load unchanged. In this case, it becomes the maximum possible at a given network voltage.
Most of the stabilizer parts are mounted on the printed circuit board shown in Fig. 2. The rest are connected to it at points A-D.
Selecting a replacement diode bridge KTs405A(VD2), it should be borne in mind that it must be designed for a voltage of at least 600 V and a current equal to the maximum load current divided by the transformation ratio of transformer T1. The requirements for the VD1 bridge are more modest: voltage and current - at least 50 V and 50 mA, respectively
Rice. 2 PCB installation
Transistor KT972A can be replaced by KT815B,a IRF840- on IRF740. The field-effect transistor has a heat sink measuring 50x40 mm.
The “voltage booster” transformer T1 is made from the ST-320 transformer, which was used in the BP-1 power supplies for ULPCT-59 televisions. The transformer is disassembled and the secondary windings are carefully wound up, leaving the primary windings intact. New secondary windings (identical on both coils) are wound with enameled copper wire (PEL or PEV) in accordance with the data given in the table. The more the voltage in the network drops, the more turns are required and the lower the permissible load power.
After rewinding and assembling the transformer, terminals 2 and 2" of the halves of the primary winding, located on different cores of the magnetic circuit, are connected by a jumper. The halves of the secondary winding must be connected in series so that their total voltage is maximum (if connected incorrectly, it will be close to zero). The maximum total voltage of the secondary winding and the network must determine which of the remaining free terminals of this winding should be connected to terminal 1 of the primary, and which to the load.
Transformer T2 - any network transformer with a voltage on the secondary winding close to that indicated in the diagram with a current consumed from this winding of 5O...1OOmA.
Table 1
| Additional voltage, V | 70 | 60 | 50 | 40 | 30 | 20 |
| Maximum load power, kW | 1 | 1.2 | 1.4 | 1,8 | 2,3 | 3,5 |
| Number of turns of winding II | 60+60 | 54+54 | 48+48 | 41+41 | 32+32 | 23+23 |
| Wire diameter, mm | 1.5 | 1,6 | 1,8 | 2 | 2,2 | 2,8 |
Having connected the assembled stabilizer to the network, use trimming resistor R1 to set the load voltage to 220 V. It should be taken into account that the described device does not eliminate fluctuations in the mains voltage if it exceeds 220 V or falls below the minimum accepted when calculating the transformer.
A stabilizer installed in a damp room must be placed in a grounded metal case.
Note: in heavy operating conditions of the stabilizer, the power dissipated by transistor VT2 can be quite increased. It is this, and not the power of the transformer, that can limit the permissible load power. Therefore, care should be taken to ensure good heat dissipation of the transistor.
Modern life involves the constant use of various technologies, and some areas are simply unthinkable without it. Naturally, every person wants the service life of such devices to be maximum; for this purpose, some buy only products from well-known brands for greater reliability. However, high cost does not always guarantee safety under critical operating conditions. These include sudden changes in network voltage. This is especially true for those categories of household appliances that require a permanent network connection, for example, a refrigerator.
In order to protect yourself from the unpleasant consequences of such voltage surges, you can acquire a special technical device that stabilizes the output current. There are two methods used to regulate the voltage:
1. Mechanical. For this method, a linear stabilizer is used, consisting of 2 elbows and a rheostat connecting them. The voltage is supplied to the first elbow and transmitted through a rheostat to the second, which distributes the flow further. This method is effective when there is a small difference between the input and output current; in other cases, the efficiency decreases.
2. Pulse. The design of the stabilizer includes a switch that periodically breaks the circuit for a certain time. This makes it possible to supply current in portions and accumulate it evenly in the capacitor. After the capacitor is fully charged, a leveled flow is supplied to the devices without surges.
The main disadvantage of this method is the inability to set a specific parameter value. Therefore, if you decide to assemble a 220V voltage stabilizer with your own hands, you need to focus on the mechanical method. To create a simple linear single-phase current equalizer you will need:
A transformer is a pair of coils that form an inductive electromagnetic coupling, i.e. reaching the primary winding, the current charges it, and the resulting electromagnetic field charges the other coil. This relationship between voltage (U), current (I) and number of turns (N) on both windings is expressed by the formula:
I2/I1 = N2/N1 = U2/U1
The inductive coils themselves can be found in every electrical store. The number of turns on the first should not be less than 2000. By measuring the voltage in the network, you can calculate the required number of turns on the secondary winding. For example, the actual voltage is 198V, then the second coil should have x/2000 = 220/198 = 2223 turns. The generated current is determined using the same principle. According to this scheme, with a sharp increase in power at the input, the voltage will increase proportionally at the output. Therefore, to regulate such situations, a rheostat is needed to change the network resistance. The path followed by the current after the transformer is marked on the stabilizer chip.
From the transformer, the current is output to capacitors of the same capacity to accumulate and equalize the flow; approximately 16 of them will be required. Next, the capacitors must be connected to the rheostat. Its resistance at a voltage of 220 V and a current of 4.75 A (average value of the range 4.5-5 A) after the transformer should be 46 Ohms. To level the voltage as smoothly as possible, you can install several rheostats, distributing the resistance equally to each. After the circuit passes the rheostats, it is again connected into a single stream and follows the diode, which is connected directly to the outlet.
These operations apply to a wire with a phase, the zero is directly passed to the socket. Such stabilizers are best suited to constant voltage conditions and are assembled based on the parameters of a particular device, which significantly increases the efficiency of the device.
Making homemade voltage stabilizers is a fairly common practice. However, for the most part, stabilizing electronic circuits are created that are designed for relatively low output voltages (5-36 volts) and relatively low powers. The devices are used as part of household equipment, nothing more.
We will tell you how to make a powerful voltage stabilizer with your own hands. The article we have proposed describes the process of manufacturing a device for working with a network voltage of 220 volts. Taking into account our advice, you can handle the assembly yourself without any problems.
The desire to provide stabilized voltage to the household network is an obvious phenomenon. This approach ensures the safety of the equipment in use, often expensive and constantly needed on the farm. And in general, the stabilization factor is the key to increased safety in the operation of electrical networks.
For domestic purposes, they most often purchase, the automation of which requires connection to the power supply, pumping equipment, split systems and similar consumers.
Industrial design of a mains voltage stabilizer, which is easy to purchase on the market. The range of such equipment is huge, but there is always the opportunity to make your own design
This problem can be solved in different ways, the simplest of which is to buy a powerful voltage stabilizer manufactured industrially.
There are plenty of offers on the commercial market. However, purchasing options are often limited by the cost of devices or other factors. Accordingly, an alternative to purchasing is to assemble a voltage stabilizer yourself from available electronic components.
Provided you have the appropriate skills and knowledge of electrical installation, the theory of electrical engineering (electronics), wiring circuits and soldering elements, a homemade voltage stabilizer can be implemented and successfully used in practice. There are such examples.
Stabilization equipment made with your own hands from available and inexpensive radio components may look something like this. The chassis and housing can be selected from old industrial equipment (for example, from an oscilloscope)
When considering possible circuit solutions for voltage stabilization, taking into account relatively high power (at least 1-2 kW), one should keep in mind the variety of technologies.
There are several circuit solutions that determine the technological capabilities of devices:
Which option to choose depends on your preferences, available materials for assembly and skills in working with electrical equipment.
For self-production, the simplest circuit option seems to be the first item on the list - a ferroresonant circuit. It works using the magnetic resonance effect.
Block diagram of a simple stabilizer made on the basis of chokes: 1 – first throttle element; 2 – second throttle element; 3 – capacitor; 4 – input voltage side; 5 – output voltage side
The design of a sufficiently powerful ferroresonant stabilizer can be assembled using only three elements:
However, the simplicity in this option is accompanied by a lot of inconveniences. The design of a powerful stabilizer, assembled using a ferroresonant circuit, turns out to be massive, bulky, and heavy.
In fact, we are talking about a circuit that uses the principle of an autotransformer. Voltage transformation is automatically carried out by controlling a rheostat, the slider of which moves the servo drive.
In turn, the servo drive is controlled by a signal received, for example, from a voltage level sensor.
A schematic diagram of a servo-drive device, the assembly of which will allow you to create a powerful voltage stabilizer for your home or country house. However, this option is considered technologically outdated
A relay-type device operates in approximately the same way, with the only difference being that the transformation ratio changes, if necessary, by connecting or disconnecting the corresponding windings using a relay.
Circuits of this kind look technically more complex, but at the same time they do not provide sufficient linearity of voltage changes. It is permissible to assemble a relay or servo-drive device manually. However, it is wiser to choose the electronic option. The costs of effort and money are almost the same.
Assembling a powerful stabilizer using an electronic control circuit with an extensive range of radio components on sale becomes quite possible. As a rule, such circuits are assembled on electronic components - triacs (thyristors, transistors).
A number of voltage stabilizer circuits have also been developed, where power field-effect transistors are used as switches.
Block diagram of the electronic stabilization module: 1 – input terminals of the device; 2 – triac control unit for transformer windings; 3 – microprocessor unit; 4 – output terminals for load connection
It is quite difficult to manufacture a powerful device completely under electronic control with the hands of a non-specialist; it is better. In this matter, you cannot do without experience and knowledge in the field of electrical engineering.
It is advisable to consider this option for independent production if there is a strong desire to build a stabilizer, plus the accumulated experience of an electronics engineer. Further in the article we will look at the design of an electronic design suitable for making it yourself.
The circuit being considered for self-production is rather a hybrid option, since it involves the use of a power transformer in conjunction with electronics. The transformer in this case is used from among those that were installed in televisions of older models.
This is roughly the kind of power transformer you will need to make a homemade stabilizer design. However, the selection of other options or do-it-yourself winding cannot be ruled out.
True, TV receivers, as a rule, installed TS-180 transformers, while the stabilizer requires at least a TS-320 to provide an output load of up to 2 kW.
To make the device body, any suitable box based on an insulating material - plastic, textolite, etc. is suitable. The main criterion is sufficient space for placing a power transformer, electronic board and other components.
It is also possible to make the body from fiberglass sheets by fastening individual sheets using corners or in another way.
It is permissible to select a housing from any electronics that is suitable for placing all the working components of a homemade stabilizer circuit. You can also assemble the case yourself, for example, from fiberglass sheets
The stabilizer box must be equipped with grooves for installing a switch, input and output interfaces, as well as other accessories provided by the circuit as control or switching elements.
Under the manufactured case, you need a base plate on which the electronic board will “lie” and the transformer will be fixed. The plate can be made of aluminum, but insulators should be provided for mounting the electronic board.
Here you will need to initially design a layout for the placement and connection of all electronic parts according to the circuit diagram, except for the transformer. Then a sheet of foil PCB is marked along the layout and the created trace is drawn (printed) on the side of the foil.
You can make a printed circuit board for a stabilizer using quite affordable methods at home. To do this, you need to prepare a stencil and a set of tools for etching on foil PCB
The printed copy of the wiring obtained in this way is cleaned, tinned and all the radio components of the circuit are installed, followed by soldering. This is how the electronic board of a powerful voltage stabilizer is manufactured.
In principle, you can use third-party PCB etching services. This service is quite affordable, and the quality of the “signet” is significantly higher than in the home version.
A board equipped with radio components is prepared for external wiring. In particular, external communication lines (conductors) with other elements - a transformer, switch, interfaces, etc. are output from the board.
A transformer is installed on the base plate of the housing, the electronic circuit board is connected to the transformer, and the board is secured to the insulators.
An example of a homemade relay-type voltage stabilizer, made at home, placed in a housing from a deteriorating industrial measuring device
All that remains is to connect the external elements mounted on the case to the circuit, install the key transistor on the radiator, after which the assembled electronic structure is covered with the case. The voltage stabilizer is ready. You can start setting up with further testing.
The regulating element of the electronic stabilization circuit is a powerful field-effect transistor of the IRF840 type. The processing voltage (220-250V) passes through the primary winding of the power transformer, is rectified by the diode bridge VD1 and goes to the drain of the IRF840 transistor. The source of the same component is connected to the negative potential of the diode bridge.
Schematic diagram of a high-power stabilizing unit (up to 2 kW), on the basis of which several devices have been assembled and are successfully used. The circuit showed the optimal level of stabilization at the specified load, but not higher
The part of the circuit, which includes one of the two secondary windings of the transformer, is formed by a diode rectifier (VD2), a potentiometer (R5) and other elements of the electronic regulator. This part of the circuit generates a control signal that is sent to the gate of the field-effect transistor IRF840.
In the event of an increase in the supply voltage, the control signal lowers the gate voltage of the field-effect transistor, which leads to the closing of the switch. Accordingly, at the load connection contacts (XT3, XT4), a possible increase in voltage is limited. The circuit works in reverse in case of a drop in mains voltage.
Setting up the device is not particularly difficult. Here you will need a regular incandescent lamp (200-250 W), which should be connected to the device output terminals (X3, X4). Next, by rotating the potentiometer (R5), the voltage at the marked terminals is brought to a level of 220-225 volts.
Turn off the stabilizer, turn off the incandescent lamp and turn on the device with a full load (not higher than 2 kW).
After 15-20 minutes of operation, the device is turned off again and the temperature of the radiator of the key transistor (IRF840) is monitored. If the heating of the radiator is significant (more than 75º), you should choose a more powerful heat sink.
If the process of manufacturing a stabilizer seems too complicated and irrational from a practical point of view, you can find and purchase a factory-made device without any problems. The rules and criteria are given in our recommended article.
The video below examines one of the possible designs for a homemade stabilizer.
In principle, you can take note of this version of a homemade stabilization device:
It is possible to assemble a block that stabilizes the mains voltage with your own hands. This is confirmed by numerous examples where radio amateurs with little experience quite successfully develop (or use an existing one), prepare and assemble an electronics circuit.
There are usually no difficulties in purchasing parts for making a homemade stabilizer. Production costs are low and naturally pay for themselves when the stabilizer is put into operation.
Please leave comments, ask questions, post photos related to the topic of the article in the block below. Tell us how you assembled a voltage stabilizer with your own hands. Share useful information that may be useful to novice electrical engineers visiting the site.
The power supply voltage varies significantly among consumers due to line losses. The voltage drop can reach significant values and cause malfunction of devices and devices. Household appliances equipped with electric motors especially suffer from non-standard voltage: refrigerators, washing machines, vacuum cleaners, water pumps and power tools.
Increased mains voltage leads to intense heating of the electric motor windings, wear of the commutator, and insulation breakdown. Low voltage does not have the best effect: electric motors do not start or are turned on jerkily, which leads to premature wear of the ballasts.
The way out of this situation is quite simple - install a booster transformer, the total voltage of the secondary winding and the mains will become close to the standard supply voltage. Such a device does not have a negative impact on the electrical network. The presence of a device for maintaining the mains voltage allows you to protect electrical appliances from both increased and decreased values.
In this device, a low-power power transformer is used to increase the voltage while maintaining constant power consumption. In a real device, it is enough to slightly increase the mains voltage by adding a voltage boost, and then stabilize it. The difference between the input and output voltages is used for compensation at low voltage; the increased network voltage is reduced by a transistor regulator.
Device characteristics:
Mains voltage 160-250 Volts.
Secondary voltage 220 Volts.
Load power up to 2000 Watt.
Load current up to 5 Amperes.
Weight 2kg.
The price of the device mainly consists of the price of a power transformer type TS180-TS320 from old TVs and does not exceed 500 rubles. Transformers of the TN or TPP type with a secondary winding current of 6-8 Amps with a total secondary winding voltage of 24-36 Volts have proven well. The circuit of the voltage stabilization device consists of: a power transformer T1, a powerful diode bridge VD1 of the power circuit and a key transistor VT1.
The error voltage tracking circuits consist of a diode bridge VD2 and an error amplifier on a parallel regulator DA1.
An increase in the voltage in the network leads to an increase in the voltage in the secondary winding of the power transformer 3T1, the voltage on the capacitor C3 increases, which leads to the opening of the parallel stabilizer DA1 and the shunting of the voltage across the resistor R7. The voltage at the gate of the field-effect transistor VT1 drops and leads to its closure, which limits secondary voltage at terminals XT3, XT4.
A reduced mains voltage leads to the opposite process - a decrease in the voltage on the secondary windings of the transformer, the closing of the parallel stabilizer on m/s DA1 and the opening of the field-effect transistor VT1, which leads to an increase in the voltage on the secondary windings.
Setting up the circuit involves setting the limits for stabilizing the output voltage. After switching on (preferably to an active load in the form of a table lamp), resistor R5 sets the output voltage to 225 volts; by connecting a more powerful load of 1-1.5 kW (subject to safety regulations) - adjust within 220 volts.
After 5-10 minutes of operation, disconnect the device and the load from the power supply, check the thermal conditions of all radio components, they should not be hot, otherwise increase the heat sink of the key transistor.
Due to the variation in the gain of a powerful N-type field-effect transistor, the initial bias can be adjusted by selecting the resistance of the resistor R4 - the gate current. Fix the transistor on a 50*50*20mm radiator through a mica gasket.
The printed circuit board and transformer are installed in a suitable housing, the dimensions of which depend on the dimensions of the T1 transformer. The device operation indicator HL1 and the network switch SA1 with fuses FU1, FU2 are located on the top and side of the case.
When using a metal case, use a power plug with a grounding blade, the output of which is connected to the case.
The radio components of the device are mostly factory-made, the transformer is used without modification: the secondary winding 2T1 consists of two parallel windings of 36 volts, the third winding 3T1 with a voltage of 6.3 volts. Resistors type MLT or C29. Trimmer type SP or SPO.
The power wires, indicated in the diagram with thicker lines, should be made with stranded wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm, the remaining connections are 0.5 mm.
| Designation | Type | Denomination | Quantity | Note | Shop | My notepad |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DA1 | Voltage reference IC | TL431 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| VT1 | MOSFET transistor | IRF840 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| VD1 | Diode bridge | RS805 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| VD2 | Rectifier diode | RL102 | 4 | To notepad | ||
| VD3 | Zener diode | KS156B | 1 | To notepad | ||
| C1 | Capacitor | 0.1 µF 400 V | 1 | To notepad | ||
| C2 | 10 µF 450 V | 1 | To notepad | |||
| C3 | Electrolytic capacitor | 47 µF 25 V | 1 | To notepad | ||
| C3 | Capacitor | 1000 pF | 1 | To notepad | ||
| C4 | Capacitor | 0.22 µF | 1 | To notepad | ||
| R1 | Resistor | 56 kOhm | 1 | 2 W | To notepad | |
| R2 | Resistor | 2.2 kOhm | 1 | To notepad | ||
| R3 | Resistor | 1.5 kOhm | 1 | To notepad | ||
| R4 | Resistor | 82 kOhm | 1 | 1 W | To notepad | |
| R5 | Variable resistor | 22 kOhm | 1 | To notepad | ||
| R6 | Resistor | 1 kOhm | 1 | To notepad | ||
| R7 | Resistor |
Household appliances are susceptible to voltage surges: they wear out faster and fail. And in the network, the voltage often jumps, falls, or even breaks off: this is due to the distance from the source and the imperfection of power lines.
To power devices with current with stable characteristics, voltage stabilizers are used in apartments. Regardless of the parameters of the current introduced into the device at its output, it will have almost unchanged parameters.
A current equalizing device can be purchased, choosing from a wide range (differences in power, principle of operation, control and output voltage parameter). But our article is devoted to how to make a voltage stabilizer with your own hands. Is homemade work justified in this case?
A homemade stabilizer has three advantages:
The self-produced stabilizer has three serious disadvantages:
The stabilizer is characterized by two parameters:
This article discusses the triac current converter because it is highly efficient. For it, Uin is 130-270V, and Uout is 205-230V. If a large input voltage range is an advantage, then for the output it is a disadvantage.
However, for household appliances this range remains acceptable. This is easy to check, because the permissible voltage fluctuations are surges and dips of no more than 10%. And this is 22.2 Volts up or down. This means that it is permissible to change the voltage from 197.8 to 242.2 Volts. Compared to this range, the current on our triac stabilizer is even smoother.
The device is suitable for connecting to a line with a load of no more than 6 kW. It switches in 0.01 seconds.
A homemade 220V voltage stabilizer, the diagram of which is presented above, includes the following elements:
After the drive of the node with the pending load (C1) is connected to the network, it is still discharged. Transistor VT1 turns on, and 2 and 3 close. Through the latter, current will subsequently flow to the LEDs and optocoupler triacs. But while the transistor is closed, the diodes do not give a signal, and the triacs are still closed: there is no load. But the current is already flowing through the first resistor to the storage device, which begins to accumulate energy.
The process described above takes 3 seconds, after which the Schmitt trigger, based on transistors VT 1 and 2, is triggered, after which transistor 3 is turned on. Now the load can be considered open.
The output voltage from the third winding of the transformer on the power supply is equalized by the second diode and capacitor. Then the current is directed to R13, passes through R14. At the moment, the voltage is proportional to the voltage in the network. Then the current is supplied to non-inverting comparators. Immediately, the inverting comparing devices receive an already equalized current, which is supplied to resistances from 15 to 23. Then a controller is connected to process the input signals on the comparison devices.
If a voltage of up to 130 Volts is introduced, then a low voltage logical level (LU) is indicated at the comparator terminals. The fourth transistor is open, and LED 1 blinks and indicates that there is a strong dip in the line. You must understand that the stabilizer is not able to produce the required voltage. Therefore, all triacs are closed and there is no load.
If the voltage at the input is 130-150 Volts, then a high LU is observed on signals 1 and A, but for other signals it is still low. The fifth transistor turns on, the second diode lights up. Optocoupler triac U1.2 and triac VS2 open. The load will go along the latter and reach the winding terminal of the second autotransformer from above.
With an input voltage of 150-170 Volts, a high LU is observed on signals 1, 2 and V; on the rest it is still low. Then the sixth transistor turns on and the third diode turns on, VS2 turns on and the current is supplied to the second (if counted from above) winding terminal of the second autotransformer.
The operation of the stabilizer is described in the same way at voltage ranges of 170-190V, 190-210V, 210-230V, 230-250V.
For a triac current converter, you need a printed circuit board on which all the elements will be placed. Its size: 11.5 by 9 cm. To make it you will need fiberglass, covered with foil on one side.
The board can be printed on a laser printer, after which an iron will be used. It is convenient to make a board yourself using the Sprint Loyout program. A diagram of the placement of elements on it is shown below.
The first transformer T1 with a power of 3 kW is manufactured using a magnetic core with a cross-sectional area (CSA) of 187 sq. mm. And three wires PEV-2:
If you don’t want to wind the wire, then you can purchase two TPK-2-2×12V transformers and connect them in series, as in the figure below.
To make an autotransformer with a second power of 6 kW, you will need a toroidal magnetic core and PEV-2 wire, from which a wrap of 455 turns will be made. And here we need bends (7 pieces):
Buy in an electrical and radio equipment store (designation in brackets in the diagram):
The current stabilizing device microcircuit is installed on a heat sink, for which an aluminum plate is suitable. Its area should not be less than 15 square meters. cm.
A heat sink with a cooling surface is also necessary for triacs. For all 7 elements, one heat sink with an area of at least 16 square meters is sufficient. dm.
In order for the AC voltage converter we manufacture to work, you will need a microcontroller. The KR1554LP5 microcircuit copes with its role perfectly.
You already know that you can find 9 flashing diodes in the circuit. All of them are located on it so that they fit into the holes that are on the front panel of the device. And if the stabilizer body does not allow their location, as in the diagram, then you can modify it so that the LEDs come out on the side that is convenient for you.
Instead of flashing LEDs, non-blinking LEDs can be used. But in this case, you need to take diodes with a bright red glow. Elements of the following brands are suitable: AL307KM and L1543SRC-E.
Now you know how to make a 220 volt voltage stabilizer. And if you have already had to do something similar before, then this work will not be difficult for you. As a result, you can save several thousand rubles on the purchase of an industrial stabilizer.
