It is quite difficult to defend yourself in a closed space from an unexpected attacker. For example, how to stop a robber in an elevator? or they can harm themselves, and a knife or pistol can become a deadly weapon. They will also give you a deadline.
Therefore, the best option would be, which, by the way, can be made independently. And today we will tell you how to make regular and powerful mini stun guns at home.
Before moving on to special types of devices, let's talk about how to make the simplest stun gun.
Here is a list of necessary materials and parts:
Now let’s find out how to make a homemade stun gun.
First we make a high-voltage coil.
Now we make the converter transformer.
The next part is the spark gap.
We take ready-made batteries:
The latter are very capacious, but they must be purchased, and this is expensive.
For the charger we solder a diode bridge, a capacitor, a resistor and a signal LED. A diagram with the characteristics of the parts can be found on the Internet. Charging time will be about three to four hours.
As for the case, you can find something suitable by gutting the faulty device. Or glue it together from plastic parts. You can even make a case out of cardboard by filling it with epoxy. The result is a stun gun with a power of about five watts, consuming up to three amperes of current. We remember that a person should not be exposed to a discharge for more than three seconds.
So, how to make a stun gun from a flashlight like the so popular, or, for example,?
We will tell you further about how to make a stun gun from a battery.
This is the easy way. For it you will need:
We take an ebonite rod and tape two five-centimeter pieces of steel wire to it with electrical tape. They need to be connected using a wire with a transformer and a battery. The switch is attached to the opposite end of the rod. When you press its button, a discharge (arc) will appear between the pieces of wire. To do this you need to press 25 times per second.
The power of the device is small - it can be used for intimidation rather than for protection.
So, how to make a stun gun from a lighter? We will need:
We disassemble the lighter and cut off the tube with a hacksaw. We only need a handle with wires coming out of it. We leave them one or two centimeters long, cutting them off with pliers. Then we expose their ends and solder pieces of paper clips there. We bend the ends slightly. We fix the entire structure with glue. The power of the device is also not too high.
The video below will show you how to make a stun gun from a lighter at home:
You will need:
But this is more of a toy than a means of self-defense. Now let's find out how to make a stun gun from a capacitor at home.
We take a capacitor from a long fluorescent lamp. Previously, in Soviet times, it was rectangular, red or green. In modern models it is a white cylinder.
We also need a wire (double) with a plug at the end. The length of the wire can be left about ten to fifteen centimeters.
We expose the ends opposite the plug, screw them to the contacts of the capacitor and carefully insulate them. There you go. Now, after charging from the mains, a discharge will appear at the ends of the plug, quite noticeable. But it doesn’t cause harm – it only stings.
The video below will show you how to make a powerful stun gun at home:
For any person, the issue of protecting oneself and loved ones is quite acute. And although the market offers many options for solving it, not every one of them can suit you, and this entails the need to look for ways to resolve it yourself. One of the good options for ensuring your own safety is an electric shocker, which other craftsmen manage to make at home.
A stun gun is a special electrical device used as a self-defense weapon to stop or neutralize an attacking person or animal by delivering a high-power electrical discharge. Such a discharge causes numbness in the aggressor’s muscles and a strong pain effect, which paralyzes the attacker for some time. This device is produced in different shapes, capacities and price categories. Persons who have reached the age of majority are allowed to purchase and carry a stun gun with a power of up to 3 W, without the need to present any additional documents, certificates or permits. More powerful devices are intended for special services.
The most reliable are, naturally, factory-assembled devices, but people who are well versed in radio engineering can try to make a stun gun with their own hands, since there are plenty of manuals and diagrams, and getting the necessary parts is also not difficult.
The main part of the device is a voltage converter made in accordance with the blocking generator circuit. In this case, one field-effect transistor with reverse conductivity of the IRF3705 brand is used (you can take a transistor IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48 or IRL3205). It is also necessary to ensure the presence of a 100 Ohm gate resistor with a declared power of 0.5-1 W, high-voltage capacitors with a capacity of 0.1-0.22 μF (for series connection of two 630 V capacitors) and with an operating voltage above 1000 V, a spark gap ( industrial or homemade from two pieces of wire 0.8 mm thick placed one above the other, with a gap of 1 mm), rectifier diode KTs106. If you have all the necessary components, the task of how to make a stun gun will not cause any difficulties for a true craftsman.
To assemble the converter, you need to properly make its main component - the step-up transformer. To do this, take, for example, a core from a switching power supply. Having carefully freed it from the old winding, carefully wind the new one. The primary winding is made with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.8 mm, applying 12 turns and moving away from the middle (wind 6 turns, twist the wire, make another 6 turns in the same direction). Then you need to insulate it with transparent tape, making 5 layers of it. A secondary winding is placed on top, making 600 turns with a wire with a diameter of 0.08-0.1 mm, applying two layers of adhesive tape for insulation every 50 turns. This will protect the transformer from breakdowns. Both windings are made strictly in the same direction. For better insulation, you can fill the entire structure with epoxy resin. A wire with stranded insulated wires must be soldered to the terminals from the secondary winding. It is recommended to place the resulting transistor on an aluminum heat sink.
After manufacturing the converter, it is tested by assembling a circuit that does not include the high-voltage part. If the transformer is assembled correctly, the output will be a “burning current”. Then the voltage multiplier is soldered. Capacitors are selected with a voltage of at least 3 kV and a capacity of 4700 pF. The diodes in the multiplier are high-voltage ones, grade KTs106 (these are found in multipliers from old Soviet TVs).
By connecting the multiplier with the converter according to the circuit, you can turn on the resulting device, the arc should be 1-2 cm with the required characteristics and fairly loud clicks with a frequency of 300-350 Hz should be heard.
As a power source, you can use a lithium-ion battery, as in mobile phones (their capacity must be at least 600 mA), or nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 V. The capacity of such batteries should be enough for two minutes of continuous operation of the device with output power up to 7 W and voltage across the arresters more than 10 kV.
Mount the circuit in some suitable plastic case, covering the high-voltage section of the circuit with silicone for reliability. You can use a cut fork, nails or screws as bayonets. The circuit must also contain a switch and a non-latching button to prevent accidental switching on. As can be seen from the above, assembling a high-quality, reliable and powerful device requires quite serious skills, therefore, first of all, people versed in radio electronics should think about how to make a stun gun on their own.
If you need a simpler way to assemble a stun gun, you can literally make it from available radio parts. To do this you will need: a regular nine-watt Krona battery, a transformer (it can be taken from the mains adapter or charger), an ebonite rod 30-40 centimeters long. A do-it-yourself stun gun is assembled as follows: two pieces of steel wire about 5 cm long are attached to the end of the ebonite rod using electrical tape, connected by wires to a transformer and a Krona battery. The battery is connected to the two-pin terminal of the transformer (where a current of 6-9 V comes out). A small push-button switch is attached to the other end of the rod, when pressed, a high-voltage arc appears between the steel antennae (it jumps at the moment when the circuit with the battery in the small winding opens, that is, to create a visible arc you need to press the switch 25 times per second ). Despite the high voltage created in this design, the current strength will be very small, so such a stun gun can become more of a means of intimidation than protection.
If you know how to make a stun gun, then a small, low-power intimidation device can be assembled using a simple electric lighter for gas stoves. How to make a mini stun gun using it is described below.
In addition to the electric lighter itself, you will need a metal clip and glue, as well as a soldering iron, and everything you need for soldering. First of all, they disassemble it and cut off the tube using a metal blade, leaving only the handle with two wires sticking out. They are cut with wire cutters to a protruding length of 1-2 cm. Having exposed the wires and treated them with flux, two pieces cut from a metal clip are soldered to them. The antennae are slightly bent with wire cutters and the entire finished structure is glued in front with glue to insulate it. Such a shocker is low-power and is not suitable for serious self-defense.
Knowing the structure of electric lighters and having a little understanding of radio technology, you can understand how to make a stun gun from a lighter. To do this, you need to take four electric lighters (more precisely, high-voltage coils and converter boards), three AA batteries or accumulators, a flashlight body or a tube with a diameter of 25 mm. Craftsmen suggest connecting these parts together, adding arresters and a switch to the circuit, which will allow you to assemble a stun gun with your own hands without much hassle. Each of the transformers is connected to two separate contacts, and the entire contents are placed in a plastic case. It is assumed that with this method of assembly, four flashes should be produced simultaneously on the spark gaps.
To figure out how to make a stun gun with your own hands, you can remember an old unnecessary film camera - a “soap box”. It can be converted into a device that produces one-fourth the energy of a professional shocker. To do this, you need to unscrew the camera, remove the batteries and find a small flash bulb. After this, it is disconnected from the wires, and in place of the flash, two pieces of copper wire - with a thick layer of insulation and 8-10 cm long - are connected to these wires using soldering. You need to make sure that these wires protruding from the camera do not touch. The batteries are placed in place, and after the manipulations have been done, the camera body is insulated with some kind of plastic coating so that only the dischargers in the form of copper antennae and the flash and shutter buttons are visible from it. Now, when releasing the shutter, you can get sparks on the arrester wires.
Thus, there are several ways to make a stun gun at home, it all depends on your knowledge of radio engineering, skill and available source material. When working, it is imperative to observe safety precautions, since the work is mainly associated with high voltage and power electric current.
Hi all! Reviews on Mysku of this either a flashlight or a shocker encouraged me to buy it as a dog repeller. The device came to me partially working: the flashlight was shining, the shocker was sparking, but the battery was not charging from the mains. Therefore, the lantern was disassembled, as a result I myself was somewhat shocked by its internal contents, although I assumed that I would see something similar. My review is an addition to existing reviews, that is, a description of the internal structure of this flashlight-shocker.
I bought the flashlight after the review, this was my second order from TinyDeal. The order arrived to me after about 50 days, in a “simple” (as the postal workers put it) parcel without any registration - postal notices are not sent even to the addressees for such parcels. This was the first time I received such a parcel.
I brought it home, unpacked it, examined it, checked it. The flashlight works, the shocker sparks quite loudly, which is what I needed. Among the defects, I immediately noticed a crack on the plastic glass covering the flashlight, and in general the glass itself was somewhat cloudy. I shook the lantern - nothing seemed to be loose inside it.
I involuntarily tested the shock on myself when I pressed the “start” button once without making sure that the “shocking” was turned off. It so happened that I was holding the lantern by the body, and my hand slightly touched the “crown” of the lantern. The electric shock was quite strong, without a spark discharge, and it pierced the plastic of the crown, since I did not touch the contact plates. I have been repeatedly shocked by voltage sources ranging from 110 volts to 30 kV (the scars still remain), and in general I am not very sensitive to this, since the skin on my fingers is quite rough. I assess the “shocking” effect of the flashlight as quite strong, approximately equal to an electric shock from a 220-volt network. 380 volts struck me only once, and this was perhaps the most dangerous case. The kilovolts in this shocker are purely for the visible effect, and to pierce clothes. If the goal is to shock rather than spark, then a voltage of 500 volts would be sufficient, given that the current would increase significantly. Well, the place where the current is applied is very important.
After playing with the flashlight a little, I didn’t bring it to the point where the battery was completely drained, but I still decided to charge it: it was interesting what happens when you plug the flashlight into the mains for charging. It turned out - nothing! Nothing at all! The LED at the end of the flashlight handle did not light up, and by all indications, charging was not taking place. Okay, I checked the cord (who thought of making the cord so short?!) - the cord is fine. So why isn't it charging? I clicked the switches - the result was zero. The review says that charging from the mains occurs only when the switch at the end of the handle is in the “On” position, but in my case nothing changed.
Without much hesitation, I unscrew the two screws securing the plastic back of the flashlight to the metal one. With a little effort, I remove this plastic part from the lantern. And there…
I took photographs after I had disassembled everything, so some of the photos appear to be “advanced.”
I haven’t seen such a collective farm for a long time... the wires from the terminals for connecting the charging cord are soldered to the capacitor and the rectifier assembly hanging on the terminals of the capacitor. The wires from the output of the rectifier assembly go deep into the device.
The capacitor even had its housing material crumble due to excessive bending of the lead.
And the main thing is that all this is not insulated by anything, not even just a roll of electrical tape over the conductor with the rectifier. If you consider that the wires are thin and the quality of the insulation does not suffer, then you can quite expect a short circuit and fireworks. There is no fuse. A short circuit inside the flashlight can also be caused by self-tapping screws sticking out inside the flashlight that secure the back cover. It’s good that at least the connections of the wires to the high-voltage converter are insulated, I should have checked what was there, soldering or twisting, but I forgot to do this.
Next, we look more closely inside the back cover and find that the charge indication LED is soldered through a resistor to the terminals, that is, it should light up immediately when external power is applied, and stay on all the time while the flashlight is connected to the network. The review says that the LED goes out when the battery is charged - is there really a charge controller in that lantern? I doubt something, maybe there is an inaccuracy in the review? Well, it is clear that the switch does not need to be switched to “On” for charging; it is connected to the high-voltage generator circuit, and not to charging the battery.
But why doesn't the LED light up when external power is applied? It is unlikely that it has been faulty like this since new. Ah... Here's the thing... The LED, along with the wire going to the rectifier, just stupidly fell off the terminal: bad soldering. Well, now it’s clear why there is no charge and the LED doesn’t light up. I'll solder it.
But since I partially disassembled the lantern, I couldn’t stop there. Moreover, I already saw the end of a plastic cylinder, inside of which two wires went. I guessed that this is a 400KV high voltage generator, as its description on Aliexpress says (review). But if there is a voltage converter here, then where is the battery? I pulled the voltage converter towards me - it didn’t really resist, and I decided that the high-voltage wires were long enough that I could remove the converter. And indeed, I took it out, but only together with the explosive wires, which turned out to be very short, and which I, it turns out, tore out of the “crown” of the flashlight. This was a surprise, because I thought that the explosive wires were soldered to the contacts, but it turns out that soldering is an unaffordable luxury in this case (in Chinese).
Well, I tore it out and tore it out... It is impossible to put the explosive wires back without further disassembly, so I continue to gut the lantern. On the side of the handle you can see a plastic part - a button and switch holder, secured with a locking ring.
Just in case, I twisted the explosive wires, leaving a gap of about 1 cm between their ends - if I decide to check the operation of the explosive converter, it will not burn out due to excess voltage at the output, which would happen if the ends of the wires were separated in different directions. I couldn't stand it and checked the discharge disassembled - there is a discharge.
But how to remove the plastic “crown” from the lantern? I moved it and felt a slight play. At first I thought that the crown was glued, but it turned out that two screws were hidden under a black strip with an inscription glued to the edge of the metal part of the lantern. I peeled off the strip, unscrewed the screws, removed the crown, and after it a plastic “bucket” with an LED fell out onto the table, as well as a very remarkable battery.
At first, looking at the battery, I was very surprised: was it really produced in 2010? But among the bourgeoisie, the first digit is usually the year of manufacture, and it turns out that the battery is from 2013. Since the flashlight arrived charged, then perhaps the battery is not so bad, at least in terms of self-discharge. Its type and capacity from the marking “FEIYU 3.6v 1” are unclear, but it is 100% nickel-cadmium, and I measured approximately 3.8V for three of its series-connected cans. Approximately what capacity can it be? To prevent the battery from dangling, it was pressed with a fabric pad (visible in the photo). There is no insulation, not even one layer of electrical tape.
Also, there is no insulation for the super-duper LED driver - a resistor, and a moving resistor could easily short-circuit the battery. But the fact that the resistor is present, as I understand it, is already good; sometimes they don’t even put a shortcut. I wrapped a little electrical tape around the rezuk.
I understood the reason for the crack in the glass of the lantern: it was a self-tapping screw embedded in the side surface of the transparent “cup”. The reason is the crooked installation of the “piece of glass” - if it is placed level, the self-tapping screw only slightly touches its end, and does not lead to the appearance of cracks.
I began to put the lantern back together. During disassembly, I completely in vain removed the “slider” from the flashlight mode switch, and the plastic sleeve with the switch and the shocker activation button turned inside the flashlight body.
At the same time, the top of the button popped out, and it took some effort for me to return it to its place, turn the sleeve into the desired position and place the slider on the switch.
I must say that while fiddling with the disassembled flashlight, I was mentally prepared for the fact that the poorly soldered wires would fall off the switch or button, but nevertheless the soldering held up, even though I pulled the wires quite a bit in the process of examining the flashlight.
I stuffed the high-voltage generator back into the lantern housing and ran the wires to the crown. When screwing the back cover, the screws pass through the plastic of the high-voltage generator housing, preventing it from becoming loose. The wires are not connected to the aluminum contact inserts in the crown; the design simply provides a small distance between the explosive wires and the crown contacts. At the same time, it cannot be guaranteed whether there is electrical contact or not - it is a matter of chance. If there is contact now, then with strong vibration, impacts of the flashlight or falls, the wires can “run away” and an extra spark gap will appear. The high-voltage wires of my generator even had conductors slightly recessed into the insulation; therefore, in addition to the visible external discharge, small discharges also occurred inside the plastic crown, as evidenced by the burn marks left by the discharges on the aluminum inserts. To prevent the aluminum inserts from jumping out due to vibration, etc., it is advisable to secure them with glue.
To increase the likelihood of electrical contact between the explosive wires and the plates, I cut off the insulation so that approximately 0.3 mm of the central core of the wire protruded from it, inserted the wires into the holes in the crown, and put the crown in place. This operation had to be repeated, since when installing the crown a couple of times the wires slipped out of their destinations. There is no way to secure the wires better, since they are too short. It was possible to drop some glue, but I didn’t, you never know I’ll have to take it apart (almost certainly).
Well, that seems to be it... I've assembled the flashlight so far, everything works, it shines, it sparkles, but I haven't charged it yet, and the main question is how long does it take to charge this battery of unknown capacity. If anyone has worked with this and knows its capacity, please tell me. I couldn't find any similar designations.
Even before opening the flashlight, I wrote on TinyDeal that the flashlight is faulty, is not charging, and attached a couple of photos in which the flashlight is plugged in, but the “charging” LED is not lit. The store's reaction was interesting. So, after some arguing with TinyDeal, I was offered a $7 refund in the form of TD points. Or, when ordering over $45, TD promised to send another such shocker flashlight for free, which is very strange: this flashlight has had the “sold out” status for a long time. Since I already had my eye on one flashlight at TD (just a flashlight, without a shocker), I agreed to return 7 bucks, especially since I don’t plan to buy anything large there in the near future.
Maybe someday, if I get around to it, I’ll remake this flashlight for a lithium battery with a USB charging controller and a normal LED driver, and maybe with a different LED. True, in order to install a more powerful LED, you will need to grind out the heat sink adapter to replace the original plastic holder. The main question is what lithium-ion battery or battery will fit here, what format? Certainly not 18650, so perhaps installing a more powerful LED does not make sense.
Perhaps the first modification of the flashlight will be to convert it to charge the battery using a voltage of 5V from USB, you just need to install a resistor, maybe even plug a mini-USB connector into the flashlight. The charging time will be significantly reduced, although you will need to control this time yourself, but most importantly, the likelihood of fireworks when charging from the network will decrease. I haven't done it yet.
I'm planning to buy +9 Add to favorites I liked the review +24 +58Ensuring human safety plays an important role, which is why many choose various means of protection. Pneumatic or, for example, firearms are not always available and are also unsafe. A stun gun is a self-defense device that does not require a license. For this reason, this type of protection has been quite popular for many years.
The choice of such devices is now quite wide, but you can make a stun gun with your own hands. The diagram presented below will help you figure it out quickly and easily. A homemade stun gun does not pose any danger to others and can only be used for self-defense. In the article we will talk about what this device is and how it works. In addition, we will tell you how to do it and what are the features of its use.
Modern factory stun guns come in various types. Externally, they can be of different sizes, vary in power, and even have a body in the form of objects such as a flashlight, pen, pistol, lipstick, etc. The device can be powered by batteries or an accumulator. Batteries are installed in less powerful models. Sparking in a stun gun can be low- or high-frequency. Devices with a frequency of 50-80 Hz cause pain in the first second, but do not cause severe harm. As a rule, they can only scare. Devices with a frequency of more than 100 Hz make it possible to temporarily neutralize an attacker. Stun guns differ from each other in that low-frequency ones produce a crackling sound, while high-frequency ones produce a buzzing sound. You can independently determine which stun gun is in front of you experimentally: more powerful devices can set fire to paper.
Such devices are used for self-defense with the aim of neutralizing an attacker by delivering an electrical discharge. The stun gun creates a strong pain effect and acts on the muscles, paralyzing the attacker for a certain time. This device is only permitted to be used by persons who have reached the age of majority. Whether to purchase a stun gun from a specialized store or to make it yourself is an individual decision for everyone. Buying a ready-made device is quite expensive, but simple. There is an alternative option - try to make a stun gun with your own hands. The diagram of such a device clearly shows what we will have to face.
The choice of such devices is very large. They differ not only in appearance and power, but also in cost. The circuit of the simplest stun gun does not require high knowledge in the field of electronics; the necessary parts are also available for purchase. The manufacture of such a means of self-defense cannot be called very simple; moreover, the device must meet a number of requirements. The electrical circuit of the stun gun must be thought out so that the device is:
If you decide to make a stun gun yourself, remember that a device of simple design should not consume a lot of energy. A high-quality device, taking into account all the necessary recommendations, will serve properly for a long time and provide reliable protection from intruders.
What you need to make your own stun gun:
What is the principle of operation of a stun gun? The diagram given in the article assumes the following: the igniting capacitor acts on the transformer, resulting in a spark that pierces several centimeters of air. The capacitor at this moment directly hits with all its energy. The use of a conductive channel allows the charge to be carried out without large losses, while maintaining not only the power of the device, but also its convenient dimensions. How to make a stun gun at home? Let's get to work.
The transformer is the main part of the device, one of the most difficult to manufacture. To operate, you will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It will be necessary to wind an enameled wire (0.01 mm) around it. You need to wind until there is about 1.5 mm of space left in the core. An excellent result will be obtained if you wrap it with electrical tape. The result will be 5-6 layers.
It should be noted that it is quite difficult for non-professionals to make a stun gun with their own hands. The circuit may seem quite simple, but during production there are many details that must be taken into account. This is especially true for isolation. The wound wire must be insulated with one layer of electrical tape, and then another 6 turns must be made, but with a denser wire with a diameter of about 0.8 mm. When making the third turn, you will need to stop and twist, after which you can continue and add 3 more turns. You can ensure the strength of the structure using superglue. To complete the work, the cups need to be glued or wrapped again with electrical tape. Contacts should not be in contact with the environment, otherwise we risk causing electric shock to ourselves instead of defense.
Next, for work you will need a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 5 cm, made of polypropylene. In a stun gun, this part will be a sectional frame. To do this, you need to use a drill to fix a bolt that will fit the tube in diameter, and carefully grind the grooves using an emery cloth. It is important not to damage the pipe during operation and end up with sections measuring 2 by 2 mm. After this, you need to use a stationery knife to make a cut up to 3 mm wide along the frame without damaging the pipe.
So, we continue to consider how to make a stun gun with your own hands. For subsequent work, you will need a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. It must be wound around all sections of the frame, but it should not go beyond the frame. For more convenient work, it is advisable to solder the beginning of the wire or secure it well with glue; leave the end free.
A ferrite rod with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 50 mm must be processed using an emery wheel. The result should be a round part. The ferrite rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and 20 turns made on top. You need to use the same wire as for the first transformer, that is, 0.8 mm. Be sure to wind in the same direction, after which you need to insulate the wire in several layers.
The prepared rod must be inserted inside the frame, from the side where the HV winding ends, and the two windings must be connected together. After this, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. It only needs to be melted, but not heated to high temperatures. You need to pour in paraffin with a reserve, because after hardening it will settle a little. It will be easier to cut off the excess part. Now we have the main part that will allow us to make a stun gun with our own hands. The diagram clearly shows the location of the main elements.
The igniting condenser is charged through the bridge, and the combat one is charged through additional diodes. Thanks to this, one circuit is not created. Any transistor can be used; there are also no special requirements for the resistor. The capacitor provides inrush current limitation and serves to protect the converter. If the stun gun assembly circuit involves installing a powerful transistor, then the capacitor does not need to be used.
AA size batteries are installed in the amount of 6 pieces. Transistors are mounted on a radiator. It is desirable that it have insulating gaskets. We install all prepared parts. The most important thing is that you need to fix the HV pins, the distance between which should be more than 15 mm. Otherwise, the stun gun has every chance of quickly burning out.
Whether to use a charger for a stun gun or not depends on the desire of the owner. Batteries are best for power supply. The stun gun does not require any specific settings; it should work immediately. If you use these batteries, the discharge frequency should be close to 35 Hertz. If this value is lower, the transformer may be incorrectly or poorly wound, or other transistors should be selected. You need to experimentally select the frequency of discharges. This is done by routing contacts. The discharge frequency must be tested for 5 seconds. The distance should not be as wide as possible, otherwise the stun gun may burn out at one point. Note that air breakdown is affected by pressure, humidity and other external conditions.
What do you need for a homemade stun gun? Thick cardboard is suitable as the body of the device, on which you can immediately draw the location of all the parts, and then begin installing and fastening them. It is best to bend the material with pliers. Glue is applied to the outside. It is important to ensure the tightness of the seam. It is better to first place the parts inside the case, and then begin to fix them one by one.
Designate a location for charging the battery and the start button. It is advisable to treat the stun gun with heat shrink; this will help to recess some elements a little inside and provide very good protection from the external environment. After using the heat shrink, you need to check the operation of the stun gun again. Aluminum rivets should be used as protective electrodes.
After checking the operation of the stun gun and the tightness of the entire system, you can begin to fill the device with epoxy resin. After this you need to wait 6-7 hours. At this stage, you can cut off the excess parts and give it a convenient shape before the epoxy hardens too much. You can sand the device and then coat the finished body with varnish. The operating instructions for the stun gun do not require any special explanation. This device is used for self-defense, does not cause much harm to health and does not require a license.
If the spark between the contacts of the device is small and raises doubts about the effectiveness, then you can check it. stun gun? For this purpose, it is sufficient to use a regular mains fuse, which must be placed between the contacts without creating direct interaction between them. If the fuse blows, this will indicate that the output current is already more than 250 mA. The result of competent work is a compact and reliable means of protection with the necessary power.
Let's take a closer look at what such a device looks like. more difficult to perform. For this reason, many people prefer the regular model of the device. This device works as follows: a special unit is installed in it, which is directly connected to the source of electricity by high-voltage wires; at the moment when the block hits the target, voltage is applied to the electrodes and an electric shock occurs. The design itself is difficult to manufacture. To operate you will need a firing system and special wires. The disadvantages of such a stun gun also include the fact that the device must be recharged after use. If there are multiple attackers, some difficulties may arise and the stun gun will not provide adequate protection.
It is important to remember that the device should only be used for its intended purpose and when danger arises. A stun gun is not fatal. But if a person suffers from heart disease, he may die. An electric shock to the chest area is dangerous even for a healthy person. It is safe and effective to use the device in the abdominal muscles, where those responsible for coordinating movements are located. This application will allow the intruder to be incapacitated for some time.
Improper use of a stun gun can cause harm to the owner. For example, in humid weather you can get it yourself. A stun gun must not be used in water, near an open fire, or near explosive objects. The thickness of the attacker's clothing does not affect the performance of the device. It is important to observe the time of exposure of a person to a stun gun. To lose orientation and cause pain, using the device for 1-2 seconds is enough. Its prolonged use is unacceptable, as it can lead to fatal electric shock. The effect of using the device lasts on average 20 minutes. In this case, contact with the following areas should be avoided:
There are a lot of ways to create a stun gun at home, and we have considered only one of them. In each case, you need to take into account certain features and subtleties so as not to spoil the details and not to redo the work several times. The material for making a stun gun and the result of the efforts depend on the skill and experience of the specialist. You can buy the necessary parts or get them from other unnecessary equipment. Additionally, the device can be equipped with a flashlight for convenience. It depends on personal wishes.
There are a large number of different models of stun guns on the market, which also differ in power. For self-defense purposes, it is allowed to use a stun gun up to 3 W, and only after reaching the age of majority. Devices with higher power are permitted only for intelligence agencies. Now you know how to make a stun gun at home. We hope that our article will be useful and will help you make a high-quality self-defense product with your own hands that will fully meet your expectations and will last a long time.
Stun gun— the device is very useful, but what is sold in the store will not protect you in real “combat” situations. It is worth recalling once again that according to GOST, civilians (mere mortals) cannot carry and use electroshock devices whose power exceeds 3 Watts. This is ridiculous power, which is only enough to scare away dogs and drunken winos, but not for defense.
An electroshock device must be highly effective in order to protect its owner in any situation, but alas... there are no such devices in the store.
So what to do in this case? The answer is simple - assemble a stun gun with your own hands at home. Some of you may be wondering: is it safe for attackers? It's safe if you know what to collect. In this article we will offer a shocker that has a titanic output power of 70 watts (130 watts at peak) and can kill any person in a split second.
In the passport data of industrial electroshock devices you can see the parameter - EFFECTIVE EXPOSURE TIME. This time directly depends on the power. For standard 3-watt shockers, the impact time is 3-4 seconds, but naturally no one has yet been able to hold it for 3 seconds, because due to the insignificant output power, the attacker will quickly figure out what’s wrong and attack again. In this situation, your life will be under threat and if there is nothing to defend yourself with, the consequences can be tragic.
Let's move on to assembling a stun gun with our own hands. But first, I want to say that this material is presented on the network for the first time, the content is completely original, thanks to my good friend Evgeniy for the proposal to use a push-pull multiplier in the high-voltage part. A series multiplier (often used in stun guns) has a fairly low efficiency, and in this case the power is transferred to the attacker's body without much loss.
Below we present the main parameters of the stun gun:
| Rated output power | 70 Watt |
| Maximum output power | 100 Watt |
| Peak output power | 130 Watt |
| Output voltage on arresters | 35000 Volt |
| Spark frequency | 1200 Hz |
| Distance between output electrodes | 30 mm |
| Maximum air breakdown | 45 mm |
| Flashlight | It has |
| Fuse | It has |
| Nutrition | battery (LI-po 12V 1200mA) |
Inverter
A powerful push-pull inverter circuit using N-channel power switches was used. This simple multivibrator circuit has a minimum number of components and consumes current up to 11 Amps, and after replacing the transistors with more powerful ones, the consumption increased to 16 Amps - quite a lot for such a compact inverter.
But if you have such a powerful converter, then you need an appropriate power source. A few weeks ago, two sets of lithium-polymer batteries with a capacity of 1200 mA at 12 Volts were ordered from an ebay auction. Later we managed to dig up some data about these batteries online. One of the sources reported that the short-circuit current of these batteries is 15 Amperes, but then from more reliable sources it became clear that the short-circuit current reaches up to 34 Amperes!!! Wild batteries with fairly compact sizes. It should be noted that 34 A is the short-term short-circuit current supplied.
After choosing a power source, you need to start assembling the stun gun filling.
In the inverter, you can use field-effect transistors IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48, or more powerful ones - IRL3705, IRF3205 (it is the latter option that I used).
The pulse transformer was wound on a 50-watt core. Such Chinese transformers are designed to power 12-Volt halogen lamps and cost a penny (a little more than 1 US dollar).
The primary winding is wound with 5 strands of 0.5 mm wire (each). The winding contains 2x5 turns and is wound with two tires at once, each bus consists of 5 turns, as mentioned above.
We wind 5 turns at once with two buses throughout the frame, because we end up with 4 outputs of the primary winding.
We carefully insulate the winding with 10-15 layers of thin transparent tape and wind the step-up winding.
The secondary winding consists of 800 turns and is wound with 0.1 mm wire. We wind the winding in layers - each layer consists of 70-80 turns. We install interlayer insulation with the same transparent tape, for each row there are 3-5 layers of insulation.
The finished transformer can be filled with epoxy resin, which I never do, since the winding technology has been worked out and so far no transformer has been pierced.
Multiplier
We continue to assemble the stun gun with our own hands. In the high-voltage part, two push-pull multipliers connected in series are used. They use fairly common high-voltage components - 5kV 2200pF capacitors and KTs123 or KTs106 diodes (the former work better due to the increased reverse voltage).
There is nothing special to explain, we assemble it stupidly according to the diagram. The finished multiplier turns out to be quite compact; it needs to be filled with epoxy resin after it is mounted in the housing.
From such a multiplier you can remove up to 5-6 cm of clean arc, but you should not move the output contacts far apart to avoid undesirable consequences.
Housing and installation
The body was taken from a Chinese LED flashlight, although it had to be slightly altered. The batteries are located at the back of the case.
The power switch is used as a fuse. You can use almost any with a current of 4-5 Amps or more. The switches were taken from Chinese night lights (price in the store is less than a dollar).
A non-latching button should also be used with a large current. In my case, the button has two positions.
The flashlight is assembled using regular white LEDs. 3 LEDs from the flashlight are connected in series and connected to the battery through a 10 Ohm limiting resistor. This flashlight shines quite brightly and is quite suitable for illuminating the road at night.
After final installation, it is worth once again checking the entire circuit for serviceability.
To fill the voltage multiplier, I used epoxy resin, which is sold in syringes; it weighs only 28-29 grams, but one package is enough to fill two such multipliers.
The finished stun gun is very compact and wildly powerful.
Due to the increased frequency of sparking, more joules per second are supplied to the human body, so the time of effective shock exposure is microseconds!
Charging is carried out using a transformerless circuit, the design of which we will talk about some other time.
The finished shocker was covered with 3D carbon fiber (price about $4 per 1 meter).
This is how you can make a stun gun with your own hands, and it will be significantly better compared to factory versions.
For the first time, I have prepared several detailed video tutorials on assembling this stun gun.
